9 - August 2025 - Oodnadatta Track - 2nd edition

 

Entry 9 – August – 2025 Oodnadatta Track – 2nd edition

From Muloorina Station we returned to Marree where we topped up the tow tugs fuel tank. We were erring on the side of caution, travelling through an isolated part of Australia, topping up our fuel supply when available. The fuel was already $1 a litre more than about 600 kilometres back down the road.

It is all dirt graded roads in this area of Australia. Whilst driving, we were both monitoring the road conditions ahead. Travelling at a speed of 50 – 70 kph when the road was in good condition. There were many sections of corrugations requiring a crawling speed to safely negotiate. Every now and then we would encounter large holes in the road surface camouflaged by bull dust. We were extra vigilant assessing the road conditions ahead, which in turn provided an extra element of fatigue.

About a week prior our arrival, the Oodnadatta Track had been closed for a period due to the effects of rain. There were lots of evidence showing vehicle damage to the road surface, whilst wet.

Marree to Oodnadatta was about 400 kilometres and we had identified 25 possible points of interest for us along this route.

The road followed the disbanded Old Ghan Railway route. It was the era of steam operated trains, requiring many stop points, primarily for access to water.

There was the Wangianna fettler’s quarters ruins.

The “Dog Fence,” a mesh dingo-proof fence.

 

Alberrie Creek with some interesting sculptures.

Lake Eyre South, look-out. We decided to stay for the night, with different views. A flat salt crusted dryish lake bed. With a glorious sunrise.

There were the many rail siding buildings, all in various states of decline. Their construction very similar to one another with the stone building material coming from Quorn.

Most of the dirt road surface was in reasonable condition, “for a dirt road.” There were still sections of vehicle destroying corrugations. It was best to keep your vehicle speed down, mindful of how slippery the dusty surface could get.

We stopped for a look around the much publised Coward Springs campground. It was interesting, with a primary focus on a commercial enterprise. We declined the temptation.

A look at the Mound Springs were of particular interest. Natural outlets for the waters of the Great Artesian Basin. The water flows up from fractures in the earth crust above the Great Artesian Basin. Some of the Mound Springs have been flowing for thousands of years. The springs were of significance for Aboriginal people’s source of water and food, especially during drought times. The early days of colonisation based their settlements nearby these springs.

With thousands of bores sunk into the Great Artesian Basin, the water pressure and levels have dropped. Most of the natural flowing Mound Springs have now dried up.

The below picture of Blanche Cup Spring, shows a now dry spring mound to the rear of our caravan.

The route of the old overland telegraph line from Adelaide to Darwin and the Ghan railway were determined by the location of the Mound Springs for required water supplies.

Strangway Springs was a location with many close by “mound,” springs. The springs supported a community, large enough to require a police station. There was a telegraph repeater station and pastoralist station. Today it is another ruin. We were fascinated by it, staying for a long time exploring. It is of national significance and is protected under national and state legislation. There are three walking trails for exploration of the site.

We saw two of the mound springs, still had a trickle of water flowing.

Unfortunately, our photographic equipment was unable to reflect this special location.

We particularly enjoy setting camp for the night amongst the desolate bush. The only noise, the sound of our breathing. It was pure silence.

We spent three days travelling along the 200-kilometre section of the Oodnadatta Track, from Marree to William Creek. There were a few horrible corrugated sections, otherwise for a dirt road it wasn’t too bad.

We stopped at William Creek for a look around. There were a lot of planes based at William Creek, providing flights over Lake Eyre. We had initially thought a night at the caravan park would be ok. Unfortunately, the caravan park was directly alongside of the dirt plane runway, with only a few strands of wire fencing separating the caravans parked alongside the runway.

We checked out the pub menu, which showed a choice of about five different selections. None tickled our fancy at the time. We weren’t complaining. We were a long way from civilization and access to all things nice.

With the busiest time for flights at first light, we decided we preferred our bush settings away from noisy, busy locations. With access to phone reception, we made a couple of phone calls and farewelled William Creek.

Heading north towards Oodnadatta the road conditions noticeably deteriorated. We found a place to set camp for the night. Another Bushtracker Caravan followed us in. Ironically, they were a lady whom we had met April this year. How random!

Over this section of road, the points of interest diminished greatly.

The road condition became horrendous. Corrugated for over a 100-kilometres. We followed the path of many before us, all over the road including off to its sides, trying to find a more comfortable line. Most of the time we were travelling at idle speed. Our bodies were feeling awful from the up and down motion. 

The scenery at times helped to distract us. The sand hills colour changing to a red, complements of the iron content in the ground.

About 50 kilometres shy of Oodnadatta we were grateful for some respite, stopping at one of the points of interest on this section of road.

Algebuckina Bridge, spanning the Neales River. The bridge showcases the engineering expertise of the time, built between 1878 and 1891. It was in use up to 1980, when the rail line was relocated.

We set camp alongside the Neales River, staying a couple of nights. Our bodies were in need of some calm time.

 

Continuing north to Oodnadatta the road condition improved thankfully. There were still some corrugated sections and other road hazards to watch out for. The red gibber rocked plains provided a stunning backdrop.

We arrived at Oodnadatta where we stopped at the famous Pink Road House, spending a horrible amount of money on fuel and some supplies.