Saturday 14 May 2016

8 - Katherine to Kununurra


May 2016 - 14/5/16



We spent a further couple of days at a caravan park in Katherine to primarily be in phone range as it was our youngest son’s last couple of days in Australia before flying out for about 6 months on a European adventure. As he commented to us it was no different to our Australian travels where we disappear for periods of time. 

We did manage time in the swimming pool and restocked our provisions for the next stage of our travels west. 

Heading west from Katherine we had decided to spend a few days at Flora River Nature Park about 100 west of Katherine. We turned off the main highway and were greeted by warning signage describing the road as a rough, corrugated dirt road and to drive to conditions. So we stopped and lowered our tow tug and caravan tyre pressures which reduces the vehicles impact on the road surface and lessens the fatigue imposed on our vehicles, along with reduced speed.



Letting down the tyre pressures
Then about 500 metres further down the road we came across another sign displayed, showing the Nature Park as closed. Steve checked the closed signage to verify that the closed sign hadn’t fallen open and yes it all appeared correct as it had been padlocked in place. One U turn executed and we travelled 500 metres back along the road before stopping and re-inflating our tyres. An hour and a half exercise we could have done without. At least the notification wasn’t at the other end of the 46 kilometre dirt track.



A not so nice sign
All the Northern Territory Government documentation we have researched has promoted most of the state’s attractions are generally open from 1st April with all open for the onset of the peak tourist season from 1st May.



In contrary to this we have found the major attractions had been open but most the advertised draw cards were unavailable. This has been the same set of circumstances for many people we have met over the last few weeks with examples “they took our money to enter Kakadu but none of the roads to the attractions were open”.



Disappointedly we travelled for another hour or so west along the Victoria Highway and stopped for the night at Sullivan Creek camping area in the Judbarra Gregory National Park with about half a dozen other campers in a nice bush setting which was basically a road side stop.



We continued west and after travelling 19 kilometres we stopped to participate in the Escarpment Track walk located about 3 kilometres west of Victoria River Roadhouse. Luckily the temperature had dropped overnight providing some very welcomed relief from the constant heat of the last few weeks.



We spent two hours scampering along the sloped stony surface, spell bound by the views of the rugged cliff faces and the carved out valleys with the Victoria River flowing through the middle, a highlight of the Judbarra Gregory National Park. The temperature was still hovering around the 30 degrees with a light refreshing breeze making for pleasant conditions. The disappearance of the humid conditions was most welcome.



The flood plain of the Victoria River

Beginning of Escarpment Walk


Progressing along Escarpment Walk

Progressing along Escarpment Walk

Progressing along Escarpment Walk

Progressing along Escarpment Walk

Progressing along Escarpment Walk

Progressing along Escarpment Walk

Progressing along Escarpment Walk

He made it Escarpment Walk

We made it Escarpment Walk

Progressing back down Escarpment Walk

Progressing back down Escarpment Walk
About 10 kilometres further west was another similar walk at Joe Creek picnic area which also looked very inviting but viewing its information board showed it to be a class 4 track which would have stretched us as we were still partially worn out from the class 3 track of the Escarpment Track.



Scenery from base of Joe Creek Picnic area
Steve was happy to find a location to camp for the night but Mary “issued a protest”, as we had barely travelled 30 kilometres for the day. It was Steve’s turn to drive and Mary was most indignant that she had driven about 150 kilometres the previous day. 

We continued west stopping to view any sights that we came across and eventually set camp at Big Horse Creek campground about 10 kilometres west of Timber Creek. 

Big Horse Creek campground was very busy with other travellers camping for the night with the majority travelling to Western Australia. We chatted with another couple discussing one another’s travel plans and they requested if they could join us at our proposed next stop over at Keep River National Park.

Up close to Victoria River at Big Horse campground
What a gem Keep River N.P. turned out to be. The campground was nearly 20 kilometres along a dirt road from the highway and the road was in very good condition to the degree we had no need to lower our tyre pressures. We initially had the place to ourselves with the only other noise coming from the whistling of the birds, a couple of dingo’s howling in the background and the sound of trees moving in the light breeze. After a couple of hours the other couple arrived, (Lesley & Steve from Nambucca Heads NSW) and the four of us participated in a late afternoon walk from our Gurrandalng campground. We meandered along a track which weaved through sandstone rock formations with geological formations similar to the Bungle Bungles located which are located about 400 kilometres away in Western Australia. 

We were so mesmerised by the scenery and the changing colours of the rock faces during sunset that we took 2 hours to complete the publicised 1 hour easy walk. 

Tea was cooked on a camp fire and the four of us chatted the evening away seated around the lovely setting of a fire.



Keep River N.P. Cockatoo Lagoon


Keep River N.P. Cockatoo Lagoon

Keep River N.P. Cockatoo Lagoon

Keep River N.P. Cockatoo Lagoon

Keep River N.P. Cockatoo Lagoon

Keep River N.P. Cockatoo Lagoon

Keep River N.P. with Boab trees becoming more common

Keep River N.P. campground

Keep River N.P.

Keep River N.P

Keep River N.P.

Keep River N.P

Keep River N.P

Keep River N.P, our caravan the white dot

Keep River N.P

Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P watching sunset changing colours
Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P
Keep River N.P

Keep River N.P









Sunday 8 May 2016

7 - Katherine


May 2016 - 8/5/16

We continued our time at Mataranka immersing our bodies in the beautiful spring waters a second day. Unfortunately none of the national parks walking tracks had been reopened from the wet season. The positive for us, the expected commencement of the busy tourist season was still a couple of weeks away so we were hoping to enjoy the available attractions in a more sedate atmosphere while we could. 

Steve had woken with a stiff neck which locked up as the day progressed. The nearest doctor was at Katherine about 100 kilometres away and we made an appointment for later in the day. 

This is where a good wife can show her true worth. Mary packed the awning away, hooked up the caravan and drove to Katherine, oversaw the doctor examination then set the caravan up in the local caravan park. 

Steve’s diagnosis was stiff neck muscles possibly from lack of exercise caused by the required concentration of driving long distances. 

So we stayed in a caravan park at Katherine for 5 nights waiting for an x-ray appointment and the follow up doctor’s appointment. 

This seemed to work in our favour as the day time temperatures were then hovering in the 36 - 37C with night time temperatures still in the high 20’s. We predominately stayed in the cool of our caravan with the air conditioner operating 24 hours a day. This would be the first time we have used our air conditioner for any extended period of time and we did appreciate its comfort. 

We even frequented the caravan park swimming pool a couple of times each day, which included a few dips in the darkness of the evening without any illuminating lights.

Katherine River low level crossing near caravan park

Cooling off in the caravan park pool

Bubbles in the caravan park pool
A few drives and a visit to the local museum kept us occupied for nearly 3 hours and then it was back to the caravan park for another hour or two in the swimming pool. 

As Steve’s neck started to free up we shifted camp to the Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) where we spent time walking around some of the tracks and took the 3 gorge boat cruise. Once again we seemed to be spending a lot of time in the camp ground swimming pool seeking relief from the heat and our air conditioner was still operating 24 hours each day. 

We thoroughly enjoyed the boat cruise along Katherine Gorge viewing the towering cliff faces lining the edges of the gorge. At one location the water was about 40 metres deep and another section the boat was scraping the bottom for a short period. We changed boats at each gorge walking a short distance amongst the rocks dividing each gorge before getting onto another boat to continue along the river. 

In gorge three we stopped for a period where we walked a short distance up a gully to Lilly Pools where we had a refreshing swim in the water and got to stand under a light cascading water fall.

Plenty of flying foxes in Katherine Gorge area

Walking track to Katherine Gorge lookout

View from Katherine Gorge lookout

View from Katherine Gorge lookout
Rangers setting crocodile trap on Katherine River

Katherine River Gorge change over

Katherine River Gorge change over

Katherine River Gorge change over with good scenery

Cruising Katherine River

Cruising Katherine River

Cruising Katherine River

Cruising Katherine River & yet another gorge change over

Cruising Katherine River- end of 3rd gorge

Katherine River - looking towards 4th gorge
Lily pond & Mary eager for another swim

Mary at the base of Lily Pond waterfall

Steve at the base of Lily Pond waterfall

Time to go but Mary was still in the water closest to the falls

Lily Pond

Time for our return trip along Katherine Gorge

Katherine Gorge one of the gorge change over stations

Final look at Katherine Gorge

The end of our boat cruise along Katherine Gorge
A 20 minute walk back to our caravan and we were ready for another cooling off dip in the water.
Katherine Gorge swimming pool
For us, viewing Katherine Gorge was another special highlight of our Australian Travels.



From Katherine Gorge we travelled about 40 kilometres north to a campground at Edith Falls still in Nitmiluk National Park. There is no power available at this campground so we were without that air-conditioned respite.



It wasn’t long before our bodies were awash in perspiration within a short time of alighting from our nice air conditioned tow tug and we were once again immersing our bodies in the waters at Edith Falls.

Edith Falls

Relaxing in the soothing water of Edith Falls

Mary at the base of Edith Falls

Mary in Edith Falls pond

The following day we did the Leliyn Trail hike which just happened to involve another upper falls water hole which we naturally immersed our bodies in. One fellow tried to breast stroke against the flow of water into the water fall unsuccessful. This gave Steve some incentive and he swam flat out freestyle into the water fall successfully touching the stone wall at the rear of the falls but was quickly pushed out by the flow of water, puffing and panting.

First view of the upper falls

Mary viewing the area of the upper falls

Mary viewing the area of the upper falls

Steve testing the upper falls flow

Mary in the upper falls pond

Mary in the upper falls pond

Some of the track to the upper falls

Another viewing of the upper falls

Edith falls with the upper falls walking track
The weather over the last couple of weeks had been a constant 36 – 37C with the occasional cool 35C daily temperature coupled with humid conditions created an energy sapping environment. Our main pleasurable escape from the heat was spending time either in swimming pools or water holes and Edith Falls provided beautiful pools in a magnificent setting.



Previously to the last couple of weeks we had never spent as much time in the water, with the whole encounter turning into wellbeing, delightful experience.