Friday 24 March 2017

6 - Victoria north eastern area - following the River Murray westbound



Entry 6 = Victoria north eastern corner - following the River Murray westbound.

Coming out of the Snowy Mountains National Park we were soon leaving New South Wales travelling into the state of Victoria. Stopping at the information centre at the township of Corryong where we assessed the obtained information for the area and the nearby Burrowa-Pine Mountain National Park caught our attention.

After about ½ hours’ drive we arrived at an out of the way Bluff Creek campground with only 5 camp sites. We weren’t expecting anyone else to be as silly as us showing up at a cold, wet cloud covered bush campground. We were a bit surprised to see another caravan set up and we utilized the site at the other end of the campground providing maximum privacy between camps.

We were in need of a refreshing walk and headed along a 2 kilometre track with a steady climb watching our footing on wet slippery rocks to the Bluff Falls waterfall. About half way to the falls the couple belonging to the other caravan were returning from the falls.

All four people instantly recognised one another with big grins. We had met Rob and Pam at a friend’s place twice over the last three years with our last meeting 26th January this year. We all excitably started chattering away so pleased to meet one another whilst caravanning at an out of the way bush camp.

We let them return to camp and we continued on to the water falls. The bush setting along with the walk and the waterfalls all provided a satisfying feeling justifying our visit to this location, even with the country side around us partially covered by low clouds and our bodies getting a soaking from the fine misty almost humid conditions.


Bluff Falls partially engulfed by misty clouds


Falls lookout
Cool down


Back at camp we chatted merrily away with Pam and Rob for an extended happy hour. By then it was time for tea and bed.

Steve, Pam, Rob & Mary
After a couple of nights at Bluff campground we relocated about 30 kilometres north east, setting camp on the banks of the River Murray at Clarke Lagoon Wildlife Reserve. This was another great setting camped amongst some grand old red gum trees.
Clarke Lagoon with River Murray flowing by

 

The water had been flowing quite quickly in the upper reaches along the River Murray. Steve was filling up the bucket with water and it was nearly pulled out of his hand by the force of the flowing water at Clarke Lagoon. We also noticed the height of the water level was constantly changing at the various campgrounds we had stopped at over the last week. On our previous entry 5 with the picture showing us sitting on rocks out in the water at Geehi Flats campground with some overnight rain at that location and the probability of even more rain further back up in the mountains during the night resulted with these rocks being underwater in the morning. Steve thought the water level had risen after our first night at Clarke Lagoon and placed a vertical stick in the ground alongside of the river. In the morning the river had receded about 10 centimetres showing the volume of flowing water was constantly changing.

After a couple of nights at Clarke Lagoon we continued west along the Murray River Road viewing a few other no cost camp locations on the banks of the River Murray. There were many splendid camping locations with water views, all with a handful of campers present. After inspecting Burrowye Bend the flow of the river slowed as it started to enter the upper reaches of the Hume Dam which stretches back from the dam wall about 100 kilometres.

We camped the night inland a bit at Cotton Tree Creek campground after travelling about 50 kilometres for the day. We had the campground to ourselves but it just didn’t feel as nice as the camping areas along the River Murray. At least there was a nice walking track to compensate.

From Cotton Tree Creek we travelled west along the Snowy Valleys Way viewing some small towns along the edge of Lake Hume.

Hume Dam - waters banking up some 100 kilometres
We enjoyed walking around Beechworth viewing some magnificently presented older buildings. It was a rather busy town with plenty of people patronising the many eateries and generally busy. Busy is not for us when out and about with our caravan so we continued on to Wangaratta where we restocked the fridge and pantry then it was back to the River Murray. We set up camp at Stanton’s Bend a free camp on the banks of the River Murray about 7 kilometres west of Rutherglen.

We set camp and then sat in the waters of the River Murray to cool off in the 34 C heat with a much more sedate flow now we were on the other side of the Hume Dam.


To obtain a picture of our setting at times can involve quite a bit of effort and determination to achieve the final presentation. The below picture shows Steve’s effort and willpower to get that photo. With the 10 second timer set, finger on the button, button depressed, Steve making his way as quickly as he can to the targeted location, sometimes can take several shots with some supreme effort.

Late afternoon dark storm clouds rolled in, accompanied by the sound from claps of thunder with the sky being lit up from lightning strikes. We were buffeted by strong gusts of wind for about half an hour with some rain. Then the sky was lit from the glow of a double rainbow.

The clearing storm clouds set a great sunset scene.

The night sky appeared clear of clouds and the heavens were ablaze with stars.

Waking up to beautiful scenery all around you was very satisfying
We were notified of the pending sunrise by the shrieking calls from 100’s of corellas in the trees around us followed by the gay laughter of kookaburras mixed with the mooo’s from cows in the background finished off by the yodelling of magpies.

Morning mist on water surface

Three nights at Stanton’s Bend left us about 6 days to get home by our determined time line. A check of our considered route equated to a travelling distance of about 1000 kilometres. Helped by the arrival of some cold weather and the nice warm interior of our tow tug we drove to the township of Echuca a distance of about 200 kilometres without stopping to explore other locations along the way.

We set camp at Rotary Park where you are required to be self-contained; a no frills low cost location. Echuca turned out to be a rather large town too big to be able to walk around to view or obtain your needs. It seemed by the volume of shops and business that whatever requirements you were in need of it would most likely be obtainable at Echuca.

We drove to a couple of different areas where we parked the tow tug and walked around the precincts. Once back at the caravan we browsed through our obtained information strategizing our next few destinations. Naturally considering what we liked along our proposed route for the next few days.

We came up with possible options A to D. Fellow travellers whom we initially met during 2013 Mick & Jen lived at Deniliquin which was located 75 kilometres north. We were travelling west but we thought it prudent to make the phone call.

After spending 5 minutes on the phone with Mick we introduced option E. It was decided to return to the Echuca information centre the next morning to seek out some extra information for option E.

The next morning we found ourselves wide awake at 3 am and not going back to sleep. At 4.30 am we decided to get up and have breakfast. A temperature check on the internet showed an outside temperature of 3 degrees. Thank goodness for our diesel heater - a part of our equipment rarely used. After about 20 minutes our inside temperature was a very comfortable 22 C and we were both ready to return to bed but we needed to finish our hot cuppa’s first.

Later in the morning which just happened to be later than we had initially planned we returned from town to the caravan and were on our way with strategies for option E. Mick and Jen were at Wallaroo, South Australia and were heading home the next day. They were planning to stop overnight at the township of Euston. Option E = Euston was about 300 kilometres away and along our considered western travelling route about 25 kilometres past our proposed turn off. We would allow two days to get to Euston so as not to overly exhaust ourselves from too much driving and obtain a pleasurable social fix catching up with Mick & Jen.

Our travelling route followed the River Murray where we stopped for a look at a few possible overnight camp locations. These consisted of dirt tracks along the edge of the river amongst river red gum trees. Unfortunately all the tracks were quite dug up due to vehicle movement on them whilst wet making them quite difficult to negotiate with a caravan in tow. We ended spending a pleasant night with about 20 other caravans and motor homes in a RV (recreational vehicle) parking area in the township of Nyah.

At Euston it was great catching up with Mick & Jen. They were heading home from their annual pilgrimage, spending 3 weeks at Wallaroo caravan park with about eight other couples. As it turned out 2 of those couples were in Mick’s slip stream whilst heading home, driving about 650 kilometres for the day. Thus an initial thought of a quiet evening meal at the local club ended up being seated at a table with 4 lively couples.

Steve, Kaye, Peter, Mary, Jen, Mick, Geoff & Kaylen
For our meal out Mary instigated a different option going without a main course but sampling 3 different entrees. The below photo, best shows her thoughts on her choices.



About 50 kilometres down the road was the location of our next destination, Hattah Kulkyne National Park where we set camp near the banks of Hattah Lake.

On route to Hattah Lake we had initially looked at another camp location on the banks of the River Murray, “The Boiler,” which did look quite nice but you were perched near some steep banks about 3 – 4 metres above the river. Yes it was a no cost location where you needed to be self-efficient but we were on our last few days of this trip and we had enjoyed quite a lot of time spent camping on the river and on this occasion we took a punt and continued to Hattah Lake.

The Boiler
What a magnificent setting Hattah Lake campground turned out to be. To stay it cost as much as a local caravan park per night and no, it didn’t have the facilities we have come to expect from caravan parks but the setting was fabulous.






We were camped amongst beautiful old knotty river red gum trees accompanied by the constant sound from many different varieties of birds calling out flying all around us.


Beautiful ancient large river red gum trees with our camp in the background between the trees
To quote some of the words of wisdom displayed on a Parks Victoria brochures, “visiting a park can improve your health, mind, body and soul,” which we deemed as the appropriate quote for Hattah Lake campground.

Heading for home our next stop was at the Pink Lakes campground part of the Murray-Sunset National Park. At this time of the year the beds of the lakes are covered by dry salt. With the onset of rain with water flowing into the lakes they change to a pink colour caused by a species of red algae with growth triggered in the lake of the algae. It was a nice quiet peaceful location.





From the Pink Lakes we drove home a distance of about 350 kilometres. For us this was a long tiring day which we had spent the previous day preparing, psyching ourselves up for the days challenge.

We had spent 37 days away travelling with our caravan. This was a short outing for us. From the very first day back in our caravan it felt good, with our inner self-satisfaction growing each day.

For us the adrenalin generated from the experience of travelling to many new locations, with the added bonus of relishing the environment in the midst of these beautiful locations. Where we utilize the home base luxuries provided by our caravan has contributed to improving our lifetime wellbeing. We love it.

Over these 37 days our costs averaged out to about $45 per day all-inclusive, while travelling a distance of about 3400 kilometres.


Entry 5 - Kosciuszko National Park.


5 - Kosciuszko National Park. 

Over the last week we had spoken to a few fellow travellers who had headed inland away from the coastal areas due to continuing wet weather. We were glad we had considered the projected weather forecast and stayed inland away from what had been our initial preferred travelling route along the coastal regions. 

It was good we were able to monitor the predicted weather forecast from the bureau of meteorology (BOM) for areas of our intended route especially with the presence of some unseasonal weather storms in the nearby areas. With the latest BOM information showing the next two days were the only forecast period to be rain free we decided to head to our next area on our wish list. 

Our next port of call was in the Kosciuszko National Park staying in a beautiful setting at the Thredbo Diggings campground. Our aim was to climb Mt Kosciuszko to its summit, planning our climb for the day predicted with the best chance of clear blue skies, the following day.

Thredbo River flowing past Thredbo Diggings campground

Thredbo Diggings campground
We had been warned to be prepared for sudden weather changes on the slopes of Mt Kosciuszko and had packed our thermal clothing and spray jackets in the back pack. 

Come morning we were pleasing to wake to a predominately blue sky with patches of cloud. It was about a 20 kilometre drive to the township of Thredbo where we ascended the initial steep slopes of the mountain by chair lift to the less steep upper level leaving a return walk of about 13 kilometres to the Mount Kosciuszko summit. 

The air temperature was quite crisp.

Going up

Beginning of Mt Kosciuszko summit hike
There were a mixture of walkers along the track with a few around our age, some older, some kids yet to reach an age with double digits, some parents carrying their young children and a predominate volume of walkers around the 20 - 30 years of age whom mostly spoke in a foreign language. 

It seemed quite a percentage of walkers decided to return once they were at the first lookout.

The First Lookout
With about 1 ½ kilometres left to go - our view of the peak disappeared with the arrival of clouds. We pushed on arriving at the peak with an obstructed cloud covered view. Thank fully the clouds seemed to be moving reasonably quickly partially dispersing for short periods before enveloping us again for a period of time. The views were glorious and you felt like you were looking down from the top of Australia which we were.










The predominately downhill return walk was much appreciated by our weary feeling legs. We stopped at the Eagles Nest café located at the top of the chair lift for a break with a nice hot chocolate. There are exceptionally good views of the valley below when on the downhill return chair lift back to Thredbo. The views were so delightful we decided not to alight at the bottom but continue for another loop on the chair lift.


Our camp was down the valley
By the time we had returned back to the bottom we were starting to feel chilled with the ambient air temperature suddenly dropping with the arrival of clouds travelling down the mountain providing some spotty rain.

Getting colder
The BOM weather forecast for the rest of the week showed an 80 percent chance of rain each day so we decided to make tracks. 

Over the last week we had been speaking to a few people who had travelled along the road west from Thredbo to Khancoban (Alpine Way) with their caravan in tow. Steve could remember many years ago this was promoted as a rough and dangerous 4wd only track, initially bulldozed to assist with the building of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Electric generation facilities. It seems in recent times it has been bitamised and is no longer a challenging drive. Enroute to this location we had stopped at the Cooma information centre to verify this information. We were told that it is not recommended for caravans over 18 ½ feet, there was still signage erected showing the route was not recommended for caravans but the signage is left over from days prior to the road being bitumised. We were also told that at the National Park entry station you will be advised if you would be permitted to travel this route. We stopped at the NP station paid for our NP entry permit and advised of our proposed route. The NP officer didn’t seem at all concerned with our proposed route with our caravan in tow. 

Yes just west of Thredbo there was large signage, “Alpine Way - Unsuitable for Trucks, Buses and Caravans.” Then just a bit further on at the first downhill slope was signage – “Trucks & Buses use low gear.” 

We found the road to be wide enough for vehicles travelling in both directions to pass safely. There were steep descents over a couple of 7 kilometre stretches where we utilised 1st gear in the tow tug to assist with keeping our speed down with a caravan in tow wanting to go faster on the downhill slopes. We were glad to have all new running gear, brakes & bearings on the caravan and a new brake controller on the tow tug.






The scenery travelling through the mountain forest was fabulous and after about an hour’s driving we arrived at our next destination, Tom Groggin campground. This was another lovely location with plenty of kangaroos grazing nearby and in the region where the River Murray starts its 2375 kilometre trek across three Australian States.
Tom Groggin Campground

Tom Groggin Campground

Tom Groggin Campground looking up towards the beginning of the River Murray

Tom Groggin Campground
We woke in the morning to the sweet smell of the forest, enhanced by overnight rain. This was another one of those enchanting camping locations of the Snowy Mountains where we could have easily stayed a week or more.



About another 25 kilometres further along the Alpine Way with more ascending than descending we stopped for a look at Geehi Flats and associated camping area. We thought the Tom Groggin campground to be superb but the Geehi Flats camping area was even better. We happily walked throughout the camping area in the light rain and selected a site. We didn’t even discuss if we should stay or continue on. We both thought yes I’m staying. This was the type of bush camping in a magnificent setting that ticked all the boxes for improving our lifetime wellbeing. We were very relaxed with the hum of gentle flowing rapids in the background, kangaroos constantly hopping by and birds chattering around us.

Geehi Hut built from river stone




Crystal clear waters from the Snowy Mountains

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Whilst at the Thredbo Diggings campsite early each morning a national parks ranger checked all present vehicles were displaying a current parks entry permit. We hadn’t considered staying overnight at Tom Groggin or Geehi Flats camping areas on the Alpine Way but just couldn’t resist either location. We didn’t see a park ranger at either location and were not tempted to see how long before we were subject of an inspection for a current permit or consequences for not having a permit. 

We were hoping to participate in a guided tour of titled Murry 1 power generating station near Khancoban but it was closed due to refurbishment. 

We found travelling the Alpine Way through this area to be OK where we both shared the driving. We found the need to select the right gears ascending and descending a necessity to assist with proper vehicle control.

Scammels Lookout




We so enjoyed the Snowy Mountain area and could easily spend a few months exploring more of the region.