Travelling Past Time: Entry 5 - Kosciuszko National Park.

5 - Kosciuszko National Park.

Over the last week we had spoken to a few fellow travellers who had headed inland away from the coastal areas due to continuing wet weather. We were glad we had considered the projected weather forecast and stayed inland away from what had been our initial preferred travelling route along the coastal regions.

It was good we were able to monitor the predicted weather forecast from the bureau of meteorology (BOM) for areas of our intended route especially with the presence of some unseasonal weather storms in the nearby areas. With the latest BOM information showing the next two days were the only forecast period to be rain free we decided to head to our next area on our wish list.

Our next port of call was in the Kosciuszko National Park staying in a beautiful setting at the Thredbo Diggings campground. Our aim was to climb Mt Kosciuszko to its summit, planning our climb for the day predicted with the best chance of clear blue skies, the following day.

Thredbo River flowing past Thredbo Diggings campground

Thredbo Diggings campground

We had been warned to be prepared for sudden weather changes on the slopes of Mt Kosciuszko and had packed our thermal clothing and spray jackets in the back pack.

Come morning we were pleasing to wake to a predominately blue sky with patches of cloud. It was about a 20 kilometre drive to the township of Thredbo where we ascended the initial steep slopes of the mountain by chair lift to the less steep upper level leaving a return walk of about 13 kilometres to the Mount Kosciuszko summit.

The air temperature was quite crisp.

Going up

Beginning of Mt Kosciuszko summit hike

There were a mixture of walkers along the track with a few around our age, some older, some kids yet to reach an age with double digits, some parents carrying their young children and a predominate volume of walkers around the 20 - 30 years of age whom mostly spoke in a foreign language.

It seemed quite a percentage of walkers decided to return once they were at the first lookout.

The First Lookout

With about 1 ½ kilometres left to go - our view of the peak disappeared with the arrival of clouds. We pushed on arriving at the peak with an obstructed cloud covered view. Thank fully the clouds seemed to be moving reasonably quickly partially dispersing for short periods before enveloping us again for a period of time. The views were glorious and you felt like you were looking down from the top of Australia which we were.

The predominately downhill return walk was much appreciated by our weary feeling legs. We stopped at the Eagles Nest café located at the top of the chair lift for a break with a nice hot chocolate. There are exceptionally good views of the valley below when on the downhill return chair lift back to Thredbo. The views were so delightful we decided not to alight at the bottom but continue for another loop on the chair lift.

Our camp was down the valley

By the time we had returned back to the bottom we were starting to feel chilled with the ambient air temperature suddenly dropping with the arrival of clouds travelling down the mountain providing some spotty rain.

Getting colder

The BOM weather forecast for the rest of the week showed an 80 percent chance of rain each day so we decided to make tracks.

Over the last week we had been speaking to a few people who had travelled along the road west from Thredbo to Khancoban (Alpine Way) with their caravan in tow. Steve could remember many years ago this was promoted as a rough and dangerous 4wd only track, initially bulldozed to assist with the building of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Electric generation facilities. It seems in recent times it has been bitamised and is no longer a challenging drive. Enroute to this location we had stopped at the Cooma information centre to verify this information. We were told that it is not recommended for caravans over 18 ½ feet, there was still signage erected showing the route was not recommended for caravans but the signage is left over from days prior to the road being bitumised. We were also told that at the National Park entry station you will be advised if you would be permitted to travel this route. We stopped at the NP station paid for our NP entry permit and advised of our proposed route. The NP officer didn’t seem at all concerned with our proposed route with our caravan in tow.

Yes just west of Thredbo there was large signage, “Alpine Way - Unsuitable for Trucks, Buses and Caravans.” Then just a bit further on at the first downhill slope was signage – “Trucks & Buses use low gear.”

We found the road to be wide enough for vehicles travelling in both directions to pass safely. There were steep descents over a couple of 7 kilometre stretches where we utilised 1^st gear in the tow tug to assist with keeping our speed down with a caravan in tow wanting to go faster on the downhill slopes. We were glad to have all new running gear, brakes & bearings on the caravan and a new brake controller on the tow tug.

The scenery travelling through the mountain forest was fabulous and after about an hour’s driving we arrived at our next destination, Tom Groggin campground. This was another lovely location with plenty of kangaroos grazing nearby and in the region where the River Murray starts its 2375 kilometre trek across three Australian States.

Tom Groggin Campground

Tom Groggin Campground looking up towards the beginning of the River Murray

Tom Groggin Campground

We woke in the morning to the sweet smell of the forest, enhanced by overnight rain. This was another one of those enchanting camping locations of the Snowy Mountains where we could have easily stayed a week or more.

About another 25 kilometres further along the Alpine Way with more ascending than descending we stopped for a look at Geehi Flats and associated camping area. We thought the Tom Groggin campground to be superb but the Geehi Flats camping area was even better. We happily walked throughout the camping area in the light rain and selected a site. We didn’t even discuss if we should stay or continue on. We both thought yes I’m staying. This was the type of bush camping in a magnificent setting that ticked all the boxes for improving our lifetime wellbeing. We were very relaxed with the hum of gentle flowing rapids in the background, kangaroos constantly hopping by and birds chattering around us.

Geehi Hut built from river stone

Crystal clear waters from the Snowy Mountains

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Whilst at the Thredbo Diggings campsite early each morning a national parks ranger checked all present vehicles were displaying a current parks entry permit. We hadn’t considered staying overnight at Tom Groggin or Geehi Flats camping areas on the Alpine Way but just couldn’t resist either location. We didn’t see a park ranger at either location and were not tempted to see how long before we were subject of an inspection for a current permit or consequences for not having a permit.

We were hoping to participate in a guided tour of titled Murry 1 power generating station near Khancoban but it was closed due to refurbishment.

We found travelling the Alpine Way through this area to be OK where we both shared the driving. We found the need to select the right gears ascending and descending a necessity to assist with proper vehicle control.