8 - 2024 - Litchfield National Park - Florence Falls, N.T.

 

Entry 8 – 2024 – Litchfield National Park - Florence Falls , NT

After a brilliant 14 days at Nitmiluk National Park, Leliyn-Edith Falls campground, we headed up the road a bit with our next target destination at Litchfield National Park.

Before setting camp at Litchfield N.P. we were in need to attend to some priorities.

There were the normal requirements of restocking the pantry and refuelling the tow tug. Mary’s hiking boots had suffered a blow-out. Annoyingly we neglected to pack a brand-new pair we had left at home. Grrr. We were within a couple of hundred kilometres from the major city of Darwin. We deviated, travelling past Litchfield N.P. staying a few nights on the outskirts of Darwin, with a priority, hoping to obtain some hiking boot repairs.

Being close to a location like Darwin also presented the opportunity to obtain some other useful items we would other-wise have gone without. Equals, spending more money!

Our camp setting was promoted as a farm stay/bush retreat. It consisted of individual camp sites amongst some trees with individual showers. We even had our own personal termite mound and some amazing sunsets.

We were about 6 kilometres from another very special oasis, Berry Springs nature reserve. We frequented the beautiful waters of Berry Springs daily. Each time we immersed our bodies in the delightful waters of Berry Springs, we came away with a positive boost to our well-being. Just another one of those awesome locations, once visited, to stay permanently in one’s memory bank.

It was good to be able to acquire some items generally only available at populated regions like Darwin. This also included good phone reception where we attended to our modern-day communication needs. Some positive correspondence and a lot of pushing the delete key.

It had been quite noticeable at many of our camp locations this year, 2024, the dramatic take up of the starlink communications system. The camp grounds were awash with different placements of the satellite receiver at the end of long leads into the various camps. It was almost like people were in a trance, fixated by the need for this type of communication. We were regularly seeing the receiver placed on the roads with little thought of passing vehicles or pedestrian movement. They were becoming an obstruction, unsightly, something we had not warmed to.

Ironically after recording our above thoughts, about a week later at a camp, the campground hosts offered us access to their starlink system. We were impressed with it’s provided good internet and phone access.

We do like the peace of our extended periods without internet/phone reception. When we are in range, it seems like a high percentage of our outstanding electric communications consist of “unwanted junk mail.”

Unfortunately, Mary’s hiking boots had suffered from a terminal disease. The rubber between the soles and leather upper had perished, non-repairable.

We set in place for Mary’s new boots to be shipped to her from our home base. The provided tracking number turned out to be the registration number of the transport vehicle. It was good to be provided with pictures of the transport vehicle parked up at different locations as it was progressing towards our location. We love you Petra and Jeff. It was so nice of you to collect Mary’s boots and drive all the way up through the middle of Australia just for Mary. You do make it rather hard for Steve to compete with your kindness. Mary has her socks on awaiting your arrival.

It is an exciting feeling, knowing you are travelling to a special location. It was time for us to set camp at Litchfield National Park and we were very excited.

It was about a two-hour drive from Berry Springs. We stopped at the magnetic termite mounds for a look. It had been a few years since we were last at Litchfield N.P. We adore the special scenic locations we can get close to in the park.

Just down the road a bit, we set camp at the Florence Falls campground.

The long-term weather forecast For Florence Falls had been for 5 days at 35 C. Our camp requirements are for non-shaded locations, where we can obtain maximum solar power input. Thus, we aim for a camp location out in the open, directly exposed to the sun. With this in mind we had the caravan air conditioner operating for about an hour before our arrival. A first-time experience for us, an option available with the new caravan.

By the time we had completed the outside camp setup requirements, we were dripping in sweat and were focused on heading to the waters of Florence Falls pool for a cool down.

On entering the caravan, it felt like we were entering a fridge. It felt wonderful. All thoughts of the fall’s cool waters instantly evaporated. With a nice cool drink from the caravan fridge, whilst enjoying the caravans airconditioned environment, our bodies appreciated these modern-day conveniences.

Later in the day we cooled off even further with a dip in the Florence Falls waters. It was crowded, a reminder it was school holidays in the Northern Territory.

During this period of exceptionally hot temperatures, it was noticeably hotter out in the direct sun than the nearby tree shaded areas. The temperature within the confines of our caravan was reaching 40 degrees during the hot periods of the day. We were looking forward for the temperatures to settle back to the low 30’s, the average temperature for this time of the year.  

Another popular location nearby is Buley Rock Hole. It consists of a series of small pools along a rocky outcrop with water cascading along its channel. It is very crowded during the day with seemingly more human bodies than the actual body of water.

In the mornings we would set off on a hike to Buley Rock Hole just as the sun was appearing on the horizon. It was an easy walk from the campground at around 5 kilometres return. The early morning temperatures of 24-26 degrees were appreciated. Though on our return hike the increasing temperature was noticeable.

Our early morning hikes to Buley Rock Hole became addictive. We only missed one morning during our 14 days stay, for a Florence Falls Pool visit. Some mornings we would feel barely awake by the time we had arrived. We enjoyed the workout provided by the walk and were ready for a dip by the time of arrival. The initial entry into the cool waters certainly put an inner spark to our bodies. Very invigorating.

At times we would have it to ourselves for a period. Absolutely delightful.

During these periods with the rock holes to ourselves we would have some fun. Steve would set up the camera and tripod whilst Mary would slip into the water and Steve would assess the setting. There would be many takes to obtain “that/our,” theoretical photograph.

It’s a great feeling to have a special location to yourselves. We did our best to enjoy those times. One morning on our hike to Buley Rockhole we left camp around a couple of hours later. We only made that mistake once.

Territorians are a different type of people to other Australians. One of the days during our time at Florence Falls was Territorian Day. This is the only day in the year where people can obtain fireworks/crackers and let them off. Everywhere else (for about the last 50 years,) in Australia only a small number of qualified people have access to fireworks.

When some “Territorians,” started letting off fireworks in the National Park campground, all the non-Territorians were freaking out. How can they do this? The fire risk is extreme.

During the day we would cool off several times, taking a dip in the cool creek waters away from the popular crowded locations. We found this to be very pleasant immersing our bodies in the cool waters with majestic green tree canopies above.

We generally do our best to be polite and helpful towards our fellow human being. A thank you or just a smile is most beneficial to help maintain ones self-well-being. Occasionally this politeness can result in some unexpected bonuses.

Whilst at Florence Falls campground, we had befriended the campground hosts. At one stage they mentioned a planned drive to assess a recently established new campground at Litchfield N.P. This campground was only accessible by a locked gate, requiring a $200 key deposit plus campground fees. We were most pleased to be granted permission to tag along.

We had read some varying reviews about the new campground and relished the opportunity for a self-assessment.

The Central Valley Campground consisted of three different campground locations, spaced out several kilometres apart with about a dozen private campsites in each campground. They all had a nearby flowing creek, promoted for your own private swimming.

As it transpired the tracks within the Central Valley region could only be negotiated with a high clearance 4wd vehicle. At times requiring the use of low range traction, primarily to negotiate steep pot holed sections. We were unable to obtain “that,” great photograph, showing the ruggedness, due mostly to the shadows across the track and the constant bouncing around, hindering any photography unless stationary.

We inspected each campground, including a close-up assessment of their pools. Thank you to John and Jill for their hospitality.

Note for ourselves. Central Valley consisted of unsuitable access tracks for our caravan and we suspected even towing a camper trailer would incur difficulty negotiating some sections of track. The available camp sites were smallish, mostly suitable for vehicles with rooftop accommodation or tents. It was well patronised indicating the required access key only available for pick up from Katherine or Darwin (both around a couple of hundred kilometres away) was well used by the “locals.”

Florence Falls is a much publised location. There is a large day use car park and some overflow parking areas. Coach loads of tourists are transported there daily. It is grand viewing. We stayed in one of two camping grounds located within easy walking distance to the falls.

All day, every day, there is a constant stream of people making their way to and from the falls along about a 500-metre walking track. It is much like a busy main road. Unfortunately, the area directly nearby the falls pool is quite small, covered by chunky, ankle and leg damaging rocks, we believe unsuitable to safely cater for the volume of people attending.

During our two weeks at the campground, we chose to stay away from Florence Falls itself. For us there were plenty of other beautiful nearby options to tantalise one’s good senses.

Though we were still in need of “our,” own special pictures at Florence Falls.

Very early one morning we made our way to the Florence Falls Pool.

Our good camera activation pad, (our phone,) was placed into a clip lock, plastic sandwich bag and Mary gently, oh so gently swam out to a rock we could sit on in the falls pool. Steve balanced the camera’s tripod on a rock with the pool waters directly below and swam out to Mary. Once “our,” picture was obtained Steve swam back to secure the camera away.

Mary still perched on the submerged rock took a few photographs of Steve swimming into the tumbling falls waters. They swapped and Mary had a turn getting tossed about by the turbulent waters. Below are our photographs taken by our phone within a plastic bag which was saturated by the constant falls spray.

All too soon our allocated permissible time at Litchfield National Park was upon us. Litchfield National Park is one of those special locations well worth the effort. Even if it requires travelling thousands of kilometres to get there. We will never tire of this location.

Part of its ambience, many impressive sunrises. One evening a flock of rainbow bee-eater birds flew by, only our second experience of this phenomena. There is such a happy atmosphere, we spent many an evening chatting with other happy visitors while seated at a campfire.

Australian sunsets are often great viewing and most nights at Litchfield N.P. we experienced spectacular sunsets. One time we even spotted some wild buffalo grazing in the national park. During one of our creek pools cool offs a water monitor appeared from the water within a couple of metres from us, climbing up onto the bank. It was fabulous viewing and at the same time generated an element of panic having something like this pop up in the nearby water at about 80 centimetres long, previously unsighted.

Most of the accessible highlights throughout Litchfield National Park have settings accompanied by flowing creek waters. During the areas big wet season some of the rain waters soak into the ground, where it is stored in big underground sand-stone caverns. During the dry season some of these waters seep out from these water storage areas forming the many water courses scattered about Litchfield National Park. It is part of the grand viewing seeing so many tumbling water courses in the driest continent in the world.