Entry 8 – August – 2025 Oodnadatta Track – 1st edition
We spent three hectic weeks at our home base after the death of Steve’s dad. A different experience, dealing first hand with the death process. Our eldest son introduced us to a book, “We all know how this ends.” There’s birth, life and death, with no other options. Something, different to ponder over!
We had no fixed commitments for a month. It was winter, bloody cold and wet. We decided to head north to warmer environments and travel along the Oodnadatta Track. A first-time experience for us with a bonus of day time temperatures about 5 degrees warmer and minimal rain predicted/recorded for this time of the year.
There was a need to consider our equipment requirements as we would be travelling through remote outback Australia. Some rugged tracks, known for vehicle destroying conditions. Scarce water supplies with the only water, harsh bore water.
We packed enough food for four weeks plus extra food in case we got stranded due to road closing rain or other reasons. There was a need to carry two spare wheels for the tow tug and two for the caravan. We packed three jerry cans, providing an extra 60 litres of fuel if there were difficulties obtaining fuel. The caravans four water tanks were full.
The tow tug obtained a service. We were ready, keen for a distraction from home duties.
It felt good heading out with our caravan in tow. The first night out was at a road side stop.
Day two we stopped at the Port Augusta information centre where we obtained some brochures and verbal information about the current conditions of the Oodnadatta Track. We topped up the tow tugs fuel, with the expected price to increase substantially further down the road.
From Port Augusta we headed towards the town of Quorn, known for its famous Pitchi Richi Railway. Steam powered engines providing tourists with bygone era train rides. Our good feel neurotransmitters kicking in from the tantalising scenery.
We continued, onwards past Quorn.
From Hawker onwards towards Leigh Creek there was the constant presence of the glorious Flinders Ranges on our right. We could feel its magnetism pulling at us. Should we spend time within the Flinders Ranges, seeing if we could spot the beautiful yellow footed rock wallabies? We were very strong, staying on track.
We stopped to view the ochre pits just past Lyndhurst.
We spent a couple of nights at Farina Station and could have easily stayed longer. There was plenty to see and do. We followed one of the walking trails along the creek from the camp ground. The second half of the walk was along the disbanded Old Ghan Rail Line. There were wash aways to contend with, just like during the bygone era, with regular washaways of the track, leading to the eventual track relocation.
There was the large tank providing water for the early steam trains, later replaced by diesel trains.
It was interesting viewing of the remaining old township buildings with an abundance of information provided about its history.
Moving north from Farina it was good to spot some magnificent eagles.
It was time to tackle the Oodnadatta Track.
Our first stop, a deviation of about 50 kilometres into Muloorina Station. It was a desolate country side as far as the eyes could see.
At about the 50-kilometre mark, after leaving the Oodnadatta Track, all of a sudden, we were greeted by an oasis of trees and water. We set camp nearby a permanent wetlands fed by an Artesian Bore. Muloorina Station was establishment 1936 and the fourth generation are still at the property. All they asked of visitors, was for a donation of $10 per night to be placed in a provided box and all donations would be forwarded to the Royal Flying Doctors Service. We were very lucky to secure a grand camp site. Overlooking the wetlands on one side and a great view across the scrub plains the other side. No drapes were drawn over our windows during our stay. Opening our eyes in the morning we were greeted by divine scenery, which continued till the sun light evaporated.
Our ears were serenaded by the chattering of bird life all day and during the night. Most of the birds were unsighted, hiding safely away in the thick reeds of the water hole. Though we were enthralled by regular visits of some brolgas, foraging along the water’s edge.
The hot artesian water flows from a bore, creating a running waterway. The water was extremely hot straight out of the bore. It slowly cooled running along the waterway and when deemed to be a safe temperature there was a pool area provided. Our first dip was satisfyingly hot. The second day the wind had picked up, blowing strongly. It seemed the wind effect on the flowing water provided a cooling element. Our second dip was considerably cooler, just warm. Another afternoon’s dip after a windless day, the water was hot and our bodies could only sustain a short stay.
There was a lookout point over Lake Eyre nearby. Lake Eyre had just become filled by flood waters flowing from north western Queensland after record rainfalls. Records indicated, this would be the 4th time Lake Eyre had filled over the last 160 years. There had been a lot of publicity promoting flights over Lake Eyre as a once in a life time opportunity to view a full Lake Eyre. Marree accommodation had been booked out over 3 months ahead. There were around a dozen different planes providing flights over Lake Eyre daily from Marree. Flights were also available from William Creek as well as other locations further away. There was the constant background noise of planes overhead.
The hot pool at Muloorina Station provided an atmosphere for good conversation with many different topics raised. It was enlightening when we spoke with people whom had flown over Lake Eyre in the last few days. Most “it wasn’t what I was expecting.” Comments – I was expecting birds and didn’t see any. The weather was terrible with lots of flight turbulence. One person whom flew on a rare beautiful blue skyed day thought the different colours of the lake were fabulous.
For us Muloorina Station stay provided a wonderful reset to our feel-good well-being. The setting and bird life were a delight. There was more to see up the road and we coerced ourselves onwards after a stay of five days.
