6 - 2023 - May - Atherton Tablelands to Cooktown, Queensland

 

Entry 6 – 2023 – May – Atherton Tablelands to Cooktown Queensland.

It was a lovely time at Michael and Sue’s home overlooking Lake Tinaroo. It wasn’t all 5-star accommodation. Sue was suffering from a terminal brain tumour, debilitating her movement, speech, sight and hearing. During our stay Michael unexpectedly ended up in hospital for three nights with Steve doing a 200-kilometre return trip to Cairn’s hospital to bring Michael home. Mary spent a lot of time in the kitchen whilst Steve’s capable handy work was utilized by Michael.

It was time to continue travelling along our northern route with our primary destination for 2023, the township of Cooktown, located about 300-kilometres up the road. Our first stop was to be at the township of Mareeba where we set camp at the town rodeo grounds. We were initially thinking perhaps a couple of days to explore Mareeba’s attractions. Our first port of call was at a rather grand looking information centre. To our astonishment the tourist information person promoted attractions back down the road in the Atherton Tablelands. Steve persevered requesting information about Mareeba and its nearby attractions. The information person was just as stunned, being silent for a while before advising there were no promoted locations at Mareeba, other than a winery.

Whilst Steve had been detained by the information person Mary wondered around, finding some pertinent information for the Cooktown region. At least we came away with some positive information, once again curtesy of Mary’s investigation skills!

We spent one night at Mareeba, stocked up with food and fuel before continuing north.

A couple of days prior we had picked up on some information about a bridge closure along our route from the Atherton Tablelands to Cooktown. The bridges planks were to be replaced and re-tarred. There was restricted passage over the bridge located at Mt Molloy between the hours of 5 pm to 8 am. The bridge was to be closed to all traffic between 8 am till 5 pm each day, with variations for M-F or weekend. There was to be one exception with traffic permitted over the bridge from 12 to 12.30 pm during lunch time. We arrived at Mt Molloy at 11.55 pm to find ourselves stopped in a queue about a kilometre or more from the bridge. We crossed the bridge around 12.20 pm and were grateful to be on our way. There was another route option involving a 200-kilometre detour which connected with our planned route about a couple of kilometres just down the road from the bridge. 

We ambled along taking in the scenery, looked at a couple of locations to stop the night but none sparked any thoughts for stopping. A stop at the town of Lakeland which is the town at the start of the iconic Cape-York Road Trip to the northern point of Australia provided a good rest up. There was a park full of interesting statues and lots of informative information. We spent time at the park appreciating a stretch out. 

 

We decided to push on to our next planned destination of Archer Point located about 30 kilometres south, west of Cooktown. There were a few creek crossings to negotiate once we had left the main road. Unfortunately, all of the beautiful camp locations with ocean views had been closed off, replaced with an official smallish camp location covered by boggy water. We found a spot to park up, enjoying a great setting all to ourselves. 

We had previously stayed at Archer Point in 2019. Its vista is so magnificent, one of our photographs of Archer Point has been our computer background display since. Every time we turn on our computer and see this picture, had us yearning for a return to Archer Point.

Unfortunately, the human impact on Archer Point and subsequent erosion issues has resulted with closure signage displayed at all of the ocean side entry points. It appears to curb the human disappointment; a small area had been allocated for camping. We thought this camping area would also be duly closed as it would be covered by water during the wet season as it was located at a low point of a valley where water run off was still present.

We were a fair distance from Archer Point light house. At night its light could be seen reflecting off our 4wd and caravan during its rotation. By luck we had parked up facing the direction of the light house. At night its light could be seen penetrating one side of our caravan windows.

Steve walked up to the light house for a picture shoot. He coo-ed Mary when he was in position. Though he was in need to find a sheltered spot from the fierce wind next to the light house. It was impossible to hold the camera steady without some form of wind protection.

The next few pictures show the degraded section of track leading to our 2019 camp location. Our location in comparison to our 2023 camp location.

 Walking along some of the small bays showed a covering from drifting pollution. There were the coconuts, with lots of drift wood about and way too much plastic with lots of rubber footwear.

Archer Point is rugged, isolated and scenic, a location we enjoy. We stayed 4 nights, enjoying having it almost to ourselves with a few vehicles driving in for a look and 3 nights all to ourselves. It was divine.

Archer Point is a very charming location, worth a visit, even if it is only accessible for day visits. It was quickly reiterated to us; this was one of the windiest locations we have experienced in Australia. Few people were seen outside of their vehicles, be it for only a few minutes for a quick look. The wind was ferocious and we appreciated its presence helping to preserve our tranquil surrounds. Sometimes wind can be grand.

 

We do like the weather at this time of the year in this area of Australia. Each day the maximum day time temperature hovered between 28 – 29 C and cooled at night to between 25 – 24 C.

Once we had adjusted to the wind factor, we could feel our bodies relaxing, gazing about at an exceptional setting.