Entry 7 – 2026 – April – Marble Bar region, Western Australia
Leaving Port Hedland we headed east towards Marble Bar. Our first stop for a look, was at Doolena Gorge on the Coongan River about 40 kilometres west of Marble Bar.
There had been many mixed reports on the sandy condition of the track leading to Doolena Gorge. First, we were greeted/scrutinized by a mob of cows at the gated entrance. The track was a bit soft and sandy in places. There were a number of tightish bends between trees requiring some monitoring of the caravan’s proximity to the trees.
Arrival at Doolena Gorge, we walked about testing the integrity/firmness underfoot of the ground surface for a suitable camp location. The most appropriate way to show the effects of the setting on our neurotransmitters, would best be provided by pictures of the setting.
The ambient air temperature was still rather hot with day time temperatures hovering for several hours each day, between 38 to 40 degrees. Our bodies appreciated several daily dips in the pleasant waters close by. Regular cooling of our internal body temperatures boosted our coping abilities with the intense heat. The late afternoon sun lighting up the landscape around us, provided an added emphasise, highlighting the beautiful colouring of our surrounds. It was sensational.
When we were walking about assessing a location to set camp we spoke with another couple camped up. They spoke with a bubbly personality, most likely inspired by the setting. Some of the conversation showed they were from a country town about 800 kilometres from our home base. The following day Sue came knocking on our door. Sue had since spoken with her daughter who had identified us further to her mum. Her daughter had socialised with our son when he worked for a period at that country town.
Further conversation showed Sue had been in the same class room as Mary at school. We were thousands of kilometres from our home base. The Australian population was about 27 million. We were camped in a spot with two other couples, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Wow!
We had a couple of days with no one setting camp near us. It was a grand setting and atmosphere. Then two caravans both with kids and barking dogs decided to set camp directly in front of us, hindering our water views. They were a loud mob and one of them ran a generator during the day. Steve did a bit of a reconnaissance of other areas nearby, for a possible relocation.
We both thought it would be nice to stay longer. It was an exceptionally special location. We relocated about 100 metres up the track. It turned out to be a good decision as we had been out in the open and the new camp provided us with some privacy.
As it transpired the volume of new arrivals increased each day. They were all jockeying one another for water front locations. We hadn’t contemplated a water front camp due to the risk of bogging. And there was a regular number of new arrivals becoming bogged. They were so determined to get their water front location, many were in listing help, obtaining tows to their site.
The morning sun would rise over our water viewing area. Thus, breakfast time, we would sit under our awning gazing at our rock wall scenery. One morning a rock wallaby hopped by at speed, providing a special sighting. By the time the camera was out the wallaby was high up in the rock face.
Many people utilize drones for their footage. Aerial photography can provide some wonderful shots. We do not have a drone, preferring to provide footage you can see with your own eyes. Steve does his best, to obtain footage from an elevated position when it presents itself. At Doolena Gorge Steve did some of his own rock wallaby hopping.
We found it exhilarating, each time we entered the water for a cool down. The water temperature was quite acceptable. Floating about in the lagoon waters the views seemed to be even more enchanting. There would be several daily dips. At least once a day we would swim across the lagoon, touch the cliff face wall and swim back, touching the other cliff face wall. It was a good work out with the lagoon about 300 metres wide. Often during this work out, we would stop and gaze at out setting. Its magnificence felt just as special as when we had first set eyes on it.
There was plenty of bird life. We were often serenaded by lovely bird songs during breakfast time.
From our slightly elevated height we could see a lot of the human activity near the water front. At times vehicles and caravan would disappear in a cloud of dust from wheel spinning in the soft terrain. People chatter seemed to echo off the cliff walls. At times we could hear conversations from a long way off. At times, it was fun watching and sometimes a bit scary, seeing some dangerous driving manoeuvres,with people jockeying for a prime water front position.
Speaking with one couple whom had been camping at Doolena Gorge, many a time over the years. They had never seen so much water in the gorge. For them there normally was a raised section where they drove across the gorge and camped near the gum trees on the other side. The above picture you can see the gum trees on the other side and there was a nice flat grassed area.
One day there were a few large spots of rain, accompanied by a rainbow. Unfortunately, the rain drops caused a bit of havoc. Our solar panels looked like they were covered in hundreds of mud pies. Steve was in need to clean all of our roof mounted solar panels. We needed to maximise our solar input capabilities as we were running our caravan air-conditioner often each day. Our power supply, complements of the sun shine.
Doolena Gorge was located on a private station property. Thus, there was an expectation of cattle to be present. Our count got to 18 at any given time. Often the cows would appear around camp late afternoon. A couple of times in the morning there would be evidence of overnight visits, hoof prints around our camp including under our awning. We were thankful no cow bombs were deposited in our camp.
Doolena Gorge was accessible from the main Marble Bar to Port Hedland Road. A track along the large flood plain of the Coongan River provides access to the gorge. It was a hazardous track with a large volume of river sand and stones about. Speaking with a Marble Bar resident showed there had been significant flooding in January 2025 with the water level rising above the roads department river level monitoring tower.
We had initially driven into Doolena Gorge for a look without any thoughts of an extended visit. After 12 nights stay, we were in need to push ourselves to move on to view other areas. It was a location we suspected would stay in our memory banks for ever.
Our next entry compilation is a result of a special request. It will be uploaded in a few days.
