28 - Normanton to Undara Lava Tubes

28 – September 2016 - 28/9/16 

Departing Lawn Hill National Park under the threat of rain, we had about 100 kilometres of dirt roads to negotiate to the nearest bitumen surfaced road. The road wasn’t too bad other than a few areas already looking like a quagmire in places created by passing vehicles. The composite of the dirt roads in this area become very slippery and boggy when wet, making travel a dangerous affair, especially so when towing a caravan. 

We spent the night near the side of the road where we had located a good gravelled surface with plenty of gravel piles about. It looked like it was being set up for the manufacture of bitumen to resurface nearby sections of the road. It rained during the night and we were so glad we had made the decision to leave Lawn Hill when we did. 

Due to water lying in plenty of hollow dips on the bitumen road surface there was an increased presence of animals on the road having a drink of water. 

Over about 4 hours of driving we narrowly avoided coming into contact with more animals than we had over all our years of travel. It was probably the most rainfall we had experienced over the last 5 months. 

With our vehicle brakes fully applied, a Bustard Bird flew across our bonnet within millimetres of striking our windscreen, an emu changed direction within a metre of striking us, we had so many near misses with kangaroos, one dove bird didn’t make it with a finale viewing from our side rear view mirror of many summersaults disappearing into a cloud of feathers, there were plenty of cattle along the roads edge with a few horses and we were saved again when we slowed approaching some road kill on the road when all of a sudden an eagle flew up travelling straight across in front of us. It was a tiring day of driving with extra concentration required. Yes the roads seemed to have a higher concentration of road kill about (dead animals) than we had seen for a long time.

At Normanton we booked into a caravan park for a couple of nights, awaiting an assessment of the weather conditions and predictions before deciding on an appropriate safe travel plan. We slipped on our walking footwear and spent a couple of enjoyable hours wandering around Normanton, viewing plenty of magnificent buildings and its setting. 

We drove to Karumba for a day about 70 kilometres north of Normanton. Karumba is primarily a fishing village located at the mouth of Norman River and the Gulf of Carpentaria. It boasts four caravan parks and two modern boat launching facilities with all the required shops and food available that we seem to rely upon these days including a bakery. We did sample some naughty bakery items along with fish and chips for lunch. 

At Karumba we visited the Barramundi Discovery Centre a Barramundi hatchery which produced 120,000 fingerlings the previous year. We participated in the Barra feeding and found the provided information quite interesting. 

Karumba was an interesting place to visit for a day trip but without any other attractions other than fishing we doubt we would be tempted to visit this location again. 

On the Norman River near the outskirts of Normanton you were permitted to free camp for a maximum of 2 nights if you had a self-sufficient/self-contained vehicle and a council permit. We obtained a permit from the information centre and of note the council ranger regularly checked the camping area whilst we were there.

It had been 15 days since our last food shop. There were two smallish supermarkets at Normanton and we heard about a fresh fruit & vegetable truck that attends Normanton on Wednesdays at 3 pm for one hour at the Albion Pub carpark. We purchased all our fruit and vegetables from this truck, which were of superior quality to what was available in the shops. 

Travelling east from Normanton we were hoping to be at a road side stop called Black Bull Siding when the heritage listed Gulflander train stopped for morning tea. Fortuitously we became aware that we wouldn’t arrive in time, and then luckily we found a roadside stop alongside the rail line where we hoped to see the train pass on its way to Normanton. 

It makes you feel good when a hypothetical plan comes together. Twenty minutes later the Gulflander train appeared around the bend and on seeing us the train driver honked the train horn a few times and the passengers including the driver all merrily waved at us as they travelled by.

A short time later we stopped at Black Bull Siding for an inspection less the presence of the Gulflander Train.

If it had been a Wednesday we would have considered camping the night at Black Bull Siding to welcome the Gulflander train on its return trip from Croydon to Normanton but it was Thursday and the train wouldn’t be travelling through this area until the following Wednesday so we decided to continue east to Croydon. 

Croydon was established by a mining boom in the late 18^th century which produced 23,675 kilograms of gold over 35 years. At its peak there were 36 pubs at Croydon and now there is 1 which was up for sale. 

Today Croydon relies on the cattle stations around the district and tourism for its survival. There is a heritage precinct of 18^th century buildings and mining equipment displayed in town, all free entry to attract tourism. We enjoyed a few hours walking around town followed by a swim in the caravan park swimming pool, naturally which also included plenty of chatting with other swimming pool patrons.

Not sure what she is thinking?

Whatever she was thinking it ended with her being in court

No not the wip

Beautiful seating

Queensland outback non-arterial roads consist mostly of dirt surfaces and when you are lucky enough to obtain a bitumen surface quite often it would be a single lane width of bitumen. When you came across a vehicle from the opposite direction, generally, both vehicles drivers side would stay on the bitumen with the passenger’s side moving off the bitumen onto the side dirt/gravel surfaces. If speed is involved, vehicles can get struck by flying rocks from the passing vehicle, creating a risk of windscreen and body damage. We generally choose to stop with our rig off the bitumen to allow the oncoming vehicle to pass us whilst still completely on the bitumen surface minimising the chance of damage from flying rocks. The road surface we were travelling along (Savannah Way) was mostly a single lane of bitumen with intermingled sections of double laned bitumen.

Our next targeted location was Cumberland Chimney a roadside stop about 20 kilometres west of Georgetown where an impressive looking 1889 built brick chimney and nearby dam with plenty of bird life are the main remnants of the Cumberland Gold Mine. This was another beautiful free roadside rest area with all new (2016) long drop loo, shelters with tables & seating along with a sheltered viewing platform overlooking a large dam with quite a variety of birds to be seen including a Jabiru, Magpie Geese and various ducks at the time of our visit.

Sunrise

The ambient air temperature over the last couple of weeks had been hovering between 34–38 C, hindering human activities, other than cooling off with a swim and consuming ice cream when available. There had been a noticeable decline in the number of travellers about during the last 4 weeks, even with school holidays happening during this time frame and we had been enjoying the ‘quieter time’ with less people about. 

Unfortunately the intense heat was starting to wear us down, restricting our enjoyable activities and lessening the amount of time we were spending at stopovers. We were now bypassing some nice looking camping areas due to the heat and seeking out caravan parks to obtain air-conditioned respite. Adding to our fatigue was the increased amount of travelling time, where we had covered around a 1000 kilometres in the last week. 

Leaving Cumberland Chimney we travelled to Georgetown where we spent time viewing over a modern display of about 4500 gemstones and minerals at the TerrEstrial Centre located in the information centre. Simply put, it was amazing.

Our next stop was in a caravan park at Mt Surprise and yes we did cool off in the swimming pool. We had only been without power for 3 nights but the air-conditioned caravan felt so good, rejuvenating our bodies from the stifling heat for our next planned stop at the - Undara Lava Tubes; the main reason for us being in this area of Queensland and another location we had been desiring to tick off on our bucket list. 

The campground at Undara Lava Tubes was set in a beautiful bush setting. We were quite content walking through the bush along some of the walking trails available from the campground. 

At Undara you are only permitted to experience viewing the lava tubes through a guided tour. 

Most of Undara National Park is a “closed national park,” due to hundreds of lava tubes (caves) scattered about the national park, most unexplored. If someone wandered around in the national park and fell down an unknown hole in the roof of a lava tube injuring themselves or unable to get out, it would be highly probable that no one would know where they were or be able to locate them. Thus for the safety of the public it is classified as a closed national park. 

Undara Volcanic National Park has one of earths longest lava flows in modern geological time. We participated in the Archway Explorer tour walking along boardwalk pathways through vast tunnels created by lava flow. It was an awesome experience viewing the lava tubes. We were extremely satisfied with this experience and very glad that we had made the effort to travel to this location of Australia. 

The whole presentation, including the setting, the various levels of accommodation on offer, the restaurant, dining areas and entertainment had been given a lot of thought producing a great locale in cohesion with nature providing a very impressive set up.

We had heard this location was worth a visit but hadn’t been given any description of what to expect. All the lava tubes were very dark and unlit. The tour guide had a torch which they pointed up at the ceiling to illuminate the walking platform. If you got disorientated you would hold onto the handrail and walk towards the light at the tunnel entrance generally seen in the distance. We would have liked to have taken a torch with us for not only our personal viewing but to assist with photographs for something that the camera could focus on to take a picture. Thus our below pictures showing the lava tubes have only been illuminated by our cameras flash when the camera thought there was enough light to focus on a given point.

On one of our trail walks we bumped into a bubbly couple for the second time on a different track and we naturally stopped for a chat. They had gotten so excited about their first lava tube experience that they had managed to participate in all three lava tube viewings on offer on the same day. Each one had been in a different tube with its own unique features but generally speaking all were quite similar. This couple had flown from Sydney to Cairns, hired a car, driven the 200 kilometres to Undara, stayed in the railway carriage accommodation right next to the hub where all the activities are located. 

We were happily impressed with our Undara Lava Tube experience and would recommend consideration for attending this location in Australia to all.

27 - Camooweal & Lawn Hill National Park Queensland

27 – September 2016 - 17/9/16

Leaving Tennant Creek early in the morning we had a very big day driving, changing drivers around every 1 ½ hours (which included a stop with a little siesta in the caravan) and we made our way to Camooweal, Queensland a distance of about 450 kilometres. The day’s drive was along reasonably flat terrain with a bit of bush either side of the road, cattle grazing in the occasional paddock, otherwise there wasn’t much scenery to view along the route. We were well and truly over driving by the time we arrived at Camooweal. 

There were a couple of caravan parks in the town but we chose to camp just out of town at a beautiful waterhole, Lake Francis with plenty of bird life to view in a non-commercialised, non-cost location. 

We devoted plenty of time for pleasurable activities, recovering from our long drive which included various conversations with other travellers with the added bonus, obtaining information about road conditions and locations we were hoping to visit along our planned route. We continued with the revitalization of our tired bodies spending copious amounts of time resting, watching pelicans, darters, spoonbills and brolgas intermingling along the waterhole from our camp site.

One day we walked into town to assess what was on offer which turned out not to be of much interest for us.

Drover tribute painting 

 One evening at sunset some light rain appeared helping to create a beautiful sunset.

 

Two nights at Camooweal turned into four nights due to the beautiful location and our footy team were playing in one of the end of season finals. We had some unexpected phone reception at Camooweal and Mary just had to stay put to watch the game via the phone as we didn’t have any TV reception. 

We left Camooweal in a delighted state of mind, being woken at 6 am the second morning in a row by nearby Brolgas’, with their high pitched ‘ga-r-r-oo’ call and our footy team had won their football match to play another day positioning themselves closer towards a grand final berth.

It was another long day seated in the saddle of the tow tug idling slowly along some rough roads. The scenery was pleasant with a red rocky base sparsely covered by spinifex grass and a mixture of pine and gum trees. Complementing the setting we saw emus, cattle and four pair of eagles emphasising the beautiful rugged Australian outback setting.

A cuppa break

We always slow when approaching stock near the side of the road and on this occasion we were so glad that we were able to stop as this animal stepped straight out into the middle of the road blocking our passage.

At one stage we came across another stopped caravan that had passed us earlier.  We stopped to check on their welfare and it seemed that they were unable to continue with their planned holiday at Lawn Hill National Park as their caravans main water tank had broken away spilling its contents. They were in need of repairs only available at a largish town probably at Mt Isa a couple of hundred kilometres away in the opposite direction.

Water tank at 45 degrees under van in contact with ground

Their unfortunate predicament was a timely reminder for us - we were travelling in remote rugged locations where we needed to consider our options for survival. Our first priority for survival was to carry an appropriate amount of water and food. And to have on hand a backup supply in case a, “what if” occurred. (Unbeknown to us we were soon to experience a “what if” further along in this area.) Part of the survival package is consideration for your equipment that we rely on so significantly and we rarely give our equipment much thought. For us that equates to utilising the heaviest duty equipment that you deem appropriate and you think your budget can afford. When travelling along the Australian rugged outback roads, most usually in poor condition, comprising of dirt, gravel, stone or sandy surface we always travel at a slow rate, taking our time, looking after our rig and our bodies. And even then our caravan and tow tug still require regular maintenance. 

We crossed a floodway at the flowing Gregory River after selecting 4wd for maximum traction before stopping for the night about 500 metres up the road at the Lawn Hill National Park - Miyumba camping area. It was a very small camping area with our targeted camp ground still another 60 kilometres away. We walked into the fast flowing water at the vehicle crossing and nearly had our feet swept out from under us by the force of the water, still a few metres shy from where the full force was flowing through. The campground was very quiet, having it all to ourselves with the constant noise of flowing water and bird chatter in the background.

We continued inland with a stop to explore the World Heritage Listed Riversleigh Mammal Fossil Site. There was a manmade cave with plenty of explanatory information about the planets evolution and a walking path with interpretive signage pointing out various fossils imbedded in the nearby rocks. It was all reminisant of materials and information normally found in air-conditioned museums, not in the dry dusty outback, in very hot 38 C temperatures (this day’s temperature) with the added authentic bonus of plenty of annoying flies.

Driving in outback Australia

Our next planned nights stop didn’t come to fruition (camping area closed) and we continued on to the Lawn Hill National Park camping ground where we were lucky enough to secure a campsite 2 days prior to our original booked date. 

Our first priority was to immerse our bodies into the cool emerald green waters of Lawn Hill Gorge which had been formed by the Lawn Hill Creek, fed by numerous freshwater springs. It was certainly a great setting, an oasis seemingly appearing from out of the ground in a reasonably flat barren landscape.

We initially spent a lot of time in the water with the caravan thermometer showing a steady 38 degree temperature each day for several hours during our first 3 days at Lawn Hill. It did feel hot including the nights. 

One of the activities available at Lawn Hill was canoe hire. We paddled one of these canoes along Lawn Hill Creek viewing its magnificent wet riverine forest fringes and some impressive red-brown rock gorges. It was a 6 kilometres, 3 hour paddle for us where we were constantly mesmerised by the scenery.

Indarri Falls

Indarri Falls

About a kilometre along the creek you come to Indarri Falls where you move from the water onto the land, carrying your canoe around the falls to the upper level where you continue paddling along the creek.

Indarri Falls

We paddled as far as the calm waters lasted including rowing as hard as we could into the final rapids till the flow of the water took hold of the canoe spinning us around, pushing us back down stream.

The 3 below pictures taken from our canoe trip were at the location where we swam in the water several times each day, located about 100 metres from our camp site.

There were half a dozen walking tracks accessible from the camp ground but unfortunately 3 were non-accessible due to maintenance required on an access platform. We thoroughly enjoyed the walking trails and the magnificent accompanying scenery.

There was plenty of bird activity along the water way. Whilst on our canoe trip we saw a juvenile Fairy Martin in the water swimming towards us being chased by Archer fish. We rescued it with a paddle and it sat there exhausted. We found a tree near the base of the cliff face below the bird nests that it probably had fallen from where we left it.

 

We enjoyed watching the colourful Red Winged Parrots in the early mornings and evenings.

For us Lawn Hill National Park was a magnificent picturesque location well worth the effort, travelling to an out of the way location.

Prior travelling to Lawn Hill we had checked the Bureau of Meteorology 7 day weather forecast for this area, resulting with a perfect weather forecast. After 3 days the clouds started to appear and slowly build up intensity over the next few days. Luckily we had internet reception where we were able to monitor the weather forecast and it quickly changed to a forecast of rain and more rain. 

It was 12 days since our last food shop and we didn’t like the prospect of being stuck at this location for an extended period of time due to inaccessible roads that can get cut off, washed away, damaged so easily by a sudden down pour of rain. We decided to err on the side of caution and forfeit our last 3 days camping fees, leaving early, hopefully avoiding driving on unsealed roads / tracks in the wet, slipping and sliding, getting horribly dirty, relocating our travels closer to bitumen sealed roads less likely to be affected by wet conditions. That was our theory at time of publication prior to shipping out! We thought this should be close to a “what if” scenario and it did rain a bit before departure.