Monday, 5 September 2016

26 - Edith Falls, Bitter Springs, Longreach Waterhole Elliott.


26 – September 2016 - 5/9/16 

We spent two busy days at Katherine where both the tow tug & caravan obtained an external wash down, the tow tug was serviced, the fridge & pantry were restocked, completed all our laundry needs, caught up with our electronic correspondences and attended to several other wish list items obtainable from a largish town like Katherine. 

The climatic conditions were still amicable, adding to our relaxed sense of well-being which our bodies were appreciating. As an additional bonus the scenery in this area of Northern Territory was certainly impressive which all adds up to, “why not stay a bit longer?” 

Leaving Katherine we headed north again to Edith Falls campground where it was much easier to obtain a camp site than our last visit two months previous, credited by the decline in the number of tourists about, now at the tail end of the peak tourist season, (reference entry 16). 

We set camp and then resumed our affiliation with those water activities, immersing our bodies in the fresh waters of the pandanus fringed plunge pool with a swim out to the water fall before drifting along the gentle flowing waters back to shore. The water was certainly cooler than the waters of Douglas Hot Springs but wasn’t cold. It was a tranquil setting floating in a large pool, gazing up at an imposing backdrop of a rugged, beautiful looking cliff face.

Sunset Edith Falls

Sunset Edith Falls
During the coolness of the early mornings we resumed our walking activities completing the loop walk of the upper falls trail and yes we did immerse our bodies into the waters of the upper falls pool each morning.

upper-falls pool

upper-falls pool

upper-falls pool
One evening at Edith Falls we experienced an added bonus of sitting at a camp fire watching and listening to a digeridoo being played.



The atmosphere of Edith Falls was lovely providing a peaceful state of mind as we started to contemplate our next strategies and wishes whilst in this area of Australia.
Another one of our long time wishes had been to travel to Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park located in northern Queensland alongside the Northern Territory Border. A walk up the nearby Telstra hill to get phone / internet reception and we managed to book a campsite for a week at Lawn Hill in 18 day’s time. We hoped we had allowed enough time to make our way to this location at a pleasurable pace about 1500 kilometres away by road.
We spent 3 days at Edith Falls before starting (reluctantly) our journey south to explore other areas on our way to Lawn Hill. The “reluctantly” was credited to the beautiful weather with daily temperatures in the mid 30’s that we had become so accustom to over the last 4 months and knowing it had been a cold wet season south.
At time of departure from Edith Falls the tow tug wouldn’t start and we needed a jump start from a fellow traveller. At Katherine we had the batteries tested with a result showing them to be ok. We knew we would be travelling through some very isolated territory once we headed south of Katherine and we decided to err on the side of caution replacing both our vehicle batteries as they were 7 years of age. As a minor consolation, the 2 vehicle batteries cost a bit less than 1 of the caravan batteries.
We headed south from Katherine somewhat later than originally thought, making our way to Bitter Springs. What a great experience was Bitter Springs with its unique calming environment returning us to a relaxed state of mind?

Floating along Bitter Springs

Floating along Bitter Springs
The water flows out of the ground at about 33 C and runs along a canal type waterway. There were some platforms with stairs leading into to flowing water from where you float with the aid of flotation devices (noodles) downstream for about 15 minutes before exiting the water at another platform. From there you walk back along a track for about 1 to 2 minutes returning to the entry platform to do it all over again. The water was quite clear and pleasantly warm. There was a steady flow of people floating and walking at Bitter Springs.
We found a free roadside stop about 15 kilometres out of Mataranka for the night but there was a choice of 3 caravan parks to stay at Mataranka for those wishing to stay longer. This so happened to be our first free road side stop for 68 days. We had been very happy with our travel encounters over the last couple of months experiencing a plethora of magnificent scenery, predominantly in national park locations.
Next was a night spent at the publicized must visit “Daly Waters Pub”. It was a hot dusty location with a steady stream of people stopping for a look at the unique historic Aussie Pub during the day. Typical Aussie style, the pub came alive at night with live entertainment and we downed their signature dish, local wild caught Territory Barramundi & premium scotch fillet which was absolutely delicious and possibly the best Barramundi meal we had ever experienced. We not only had an enjoyable meal but were provided with great entertainment by a couple of singers, all creating a great environment with plenty of talkative happy people around.

Us in the far corner of campground prior to arrival of many caravans 

Daly Waters Pub
Evening meal Daly Waters Pub

Evening meal Daly Waters Pub
We had a 3rd day in a row of travelling which was becoming monotonous and just no fun. We had about 130 kilometres to cover for the day and we took a break after nearly a 100 kilometres to view the drover’s memorial and old buildings of Newcastle Waters, once a main stopover for drovers and stock along the stock route between Queensland and Western Australia which included a store and pub.

Newcastle Waters book statue

Newcastle Waters old style fridge
 It felt very hot outside on arrival at our next destination at Longreach Water Hole near the township of Elliott. We drove along a dirt track past plenty of caravans overlooking the water hole till we found a quiet spot past the congested areas with a view of hundreds of birds consisting of pelicans, cormorants, darters, whistling kites along with a few other varieties. It seemed if one bird caught a fish they would be immediately swamped by many other birds wanting to share the spoils. The flocks of birds were constantly moving up and down the water hole whenever a bird was sighted catching a fish.

Location of our van with views at Longreach Waterhole
Other times hundreds of birds would combine to spread across the water corralling the fish for a feed.



Early during our second day we were greeted by our new neighbours, Deane and Yanina who were having a sea change from life on their cruising catamaran and doing a loop of Australia by road after parking up their catamaran at Cairns.
They were a beautiful couple whom we hit it off with from our first introduction resulting with us enormously enjoying one another’s company over the next 3 days.

Yanina & Mary sharing the water with a friendly pelican

Sharing another cuppa with Yanina & Deane




Sunset with Gala's

Gala's having an evening drink
Our next port of call was at Tennant Creek where we caught up with friends Sandra and Robert with an added bonus of catching up with Sandra’s visiting parents and sister June whom Mary hadn’t seen for about 35 years. We had a wonderful couple of days with them.
Next on our wish list and the reason for making our way south was to head for Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park in Queensland.

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