8 - Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) 23rd July - 8th August

 

Entry 8 – Edith Falls – Nitmiluk National Park 23^th July – 8^th August.

Leaving Litchfield National Park we incurred a tiring day of driving, about 230 kilometres, stopping for a couple of nights in a caravan park at the small town of Pine Creek. It was intriguing how quickly we had become out of condition to the rigors of driving with a caravan in tow. All that extra concentration required whilst dealing with other traffic and road hazards.

Our primary reason for stopping in a caravan park (the 3rd for this year) was to obtain electricity power to boost the condition of our 5-year-old caravan batteries which were starting to show signs of aging. The ever-reliable stamina from our batteries was fading and we were doing our best to keep them operational. We stayed at the Lazy Lizard Caravan Park which was ok for a caravan park. It did have some special amenities with all the wash basins and cisterns constructed from old stainless steel beer barrels. There was a bar and meals area with some special northern territory fauna on display.

We spent a couple of hours walking about the town’s railway and mining museum.

We saw many tree canopies full of flying foxes whilst walking around Pine Creek as well as some human constructions.

It was about a 75-kilometre drive to our next planned destination of Edith Falls campground in the Nitmiluk National Park. We were driving by 6.30am hoping to arrive early enough to obtain a vacant camp site from one of that morning’s departures. The rising sun appeared on the horizon around 7.00am putting on a colourful display. There was a free roadside camp on the entrance road to Edith Falls and we saw around two dozen caravans or motorhomes packed into this camp spot when we drove by which was utilized by some as an overflow camp site for those unable to gain access to the camp ground or not wishing to pay the campground fee.

We arrived at 7.45am and were 3^rd in line with the line growing to around 12 within half an hour, all waiting for the shop to open where we were hopeful for a site allocation. There were a couple of que jumpers whom were politely pointed to the rear of the line by others already in the que. Over the last week we had been feeling an element of doubt we might not be able to obtain a site at the very popular Edith Falls Campground and had discussed options for a plan B. We were ecstatic to be allocated a site and even more delighted the site suited our solar needs with sunshine. The shop opened around 8.30am, processing the new arrivals, allocating sites. By 9.30am it appeared the campground was at capacity again.

Once we had set camp, we emersed our bodies in the falls pool swimming the 300 metres out to the water falls where we swam into the fall’s waters for a complete soaking and massage, returning back to camp cool and refreshed. The daily temperature was hovering around the 34-35 C degrees and we appreciated the coolness sitting under the shady trees, listening and watching the bird activities.

A walk along the upper falls loop track provided a good cardio vascular work out and naturally at the half way point a dip in the refreshing pools water.

Another morning we were up early for the Sweetwater Pool walk, about a 9-kilometre return walk from the campground. We were about 20 minutes into the walk before the sun appeared on the horizon.

At about the half way mark is “The Long Water Hole,” in another beautiful setting. It was tempting to jump into its waters but our bodies weren’t in need of a cool down at that point of the walking trail and we pushed on towards Sweetwater Pool, naturally after a couple of photographs.

Once we arrived at Sweetwater Pool it felt like we were being wooed into its inviting waters which we succumbed to so easily. Yes, our bodies were feeling hot and the water did initially feel chilly, but it didn’t take long to adjust and feel happy. There were a couple of smallish water falls creating wonderful, vibrant bubbles and you could feel bubbles massaging your whole body from the feet up.

We stayed in the water for a while, then sat on its edge for our breakfast consisting of an apple and muesli bar then it was back into the water again. It was such a delightful place, even more special without the crowds of people gathered at the other two falls pools closer to the Edith Falls campground and general car park.

We arrived back at the campground around midday with the heat from the increasing daily temperatures taking its toll on our bodies on the return walk. We were feeling quite fatigued and did nothing for a couple of hours providing our bodies with some recovery time. Well, the local birds kept us amused visiting our nearby tree canopy during our chill out time.

Our general daily ritual started early morning with its cooler conditions with a walk to the upper falls pool. There were around a couple of hundred steps along the walk from either side of the falls pool, providing a good work out. After a pleasant refreshing dip, we would continue on the circuit walk returning back to camp a couple of hours later, before the rising temperatures had an impact on our bodies. Once the ambient temperature rose during the day, we cooled off with a dip in the nearby Edith Falls Pool on need.

It was a good time of the year to be in the Northern Territory not just for its soul pleasing beautiful weather but also with amazing National Park scenery. Whilst camped at Edith Falls Campground which is part of the Nitmiluk National Park we were lucky to experience, at the onsite café, a pizza night which we didn’t hesitate to participate. As a bonus for pizza night there was live entertainment with a good supportive audience in attendance, providing encouragement for the singer, whom stayed on, performing up to curfew time.

Another night there was a free concert put on by the Alice Springs Orchestra with classical, contemporary and chamber music. And yet another night another musician. It was all fantastic entertainment with lots of cheering and clapping from the audience.

Most of the camp sites at Edith Falls campground were spaced out in several circular patterns overlooking a communal grassed area. It was a bit like the western wagon train movies where they pulled up at night in a circle. If you had friendly neighbours this provided a great setting for conversation. We even shared an evening meal with a couple of fellas on a road trip one evening.

We kept up a daily exercise routine starting out with an early morning walk, mixing up our routes along the Upper Falls Track or other days along the Sweetwater Pool Trail. The scenery was a delight and there was the “must,” cool down dip each outing. Back at base camp during the day we exercised further with a swim or three in the main Edith Falls Pool.

The Edith Falls Campground and surrounds was a most magnificent location, tantalising all our good vibes. We stayed the maximum time permitted of 14 nights without the need to start the tow tug during this period as all the scenery and walking trails started nearby the campground. It was a most charming location.

It was a sad feeling leaving the Edith Falls area. We relocated down the road a bit to the more touristy area of Nitmiluk National Park at Katherine Gorge staying a night. As the crow flies it might have been about 10 kilometres but by road it was around a 100-kilometre drive.

We moved camp on a Sunday, and so did a lot of other campers from all over. There were so many caravans on the road, and many of them were heading north still. It seemed the ongoing covid-19 pandemic was taking its toll on people’s mental health and decision making. In a normal year most holiday, traffic would be travelling in a southerly direction at this time of the year due to the approach of the wet season with the onset of humid conditions.

There were also a lot of unsafe drivers around us, speeds varying by 20km up and down, passing on a crest or bend etc. We thought it would be a nice easy drive on an early Sunday morning, wrong, it was a frustrating 100km drive due to plenty of inappropriate activities by other drivers.

Gosh the roads were the busiest we had ever experienced with too many shiny new caravans and motorhomes out and about. The sooner normal overseas travels returned to pre-covid-19 conditions, the sooner we can have our roads and campgrounds back to more accessible, safe conditions.

We arrived at Nitmiluk N.P. and established our spot in the campground, surrounded by trees and nature again. Beautiful! Time to put those walking boots on, and off for a walk to the lookout. But wait, lets go a bit further, 5km later, back at the campground and we put our feet up for a bit.

We had heard the flying foxes head up the river on dusk fairly close to the lookouts. With that knowledge we did the sunset, dusk picnic at the lookout. It was awesome watching the flying foxes and yes, they were relatively close, especially to the lower lookout. There were thousands of them, you could even see them in the distance on the horizon. Wow!

We did the lookout walk twice on the same day. It was a bit of a hike up to the lookout with plenty of steps to negotiate = several hundred steps = two tired body at the end of the day.

That was it for our time in Nitmiluk National Park for this year.