Entry 9 – Balranald – stalled by the beauty of a World
Heritage listed national park.
Mungo National Park followed
by time at Yanga National Park 30/5/18 – 5/6/18???
Part 2 added 12/6/18 to this entry. See below.
Part 2 added 12/6/18 to this entry. See below.
During our conversations with other campers at Lake Benanee we
had liked the sound of a free camp at Moulamein (The Big Tree) about 80
kilometres south east of Balranald and decided “The Big Tree,” would be our
next stop. Naturally we stopped at Balranald to view their visitor information
centre. It was one of the best information centres we had experienced for a
while with the helpful customer service girl doing a number on us. She must
have made a good assessment for our needs / likes with her provided viewing
recommendations tingling all our senses and a weather forecast for only 5 %
chance of rain over the next week. We dumped any thoughts for “The Big Tree,”
and headed north west to Mungo National Park.
We didn’t even sit down to make an assessment for our newly
acquired options, as Mungo NP sounded very enticing
and decided to head there. As it transpired it was about a150 kilometre drive with
the second half along a dirt road. When we struck some rough sections on the dirt
road we stopped and lowered our tyre pressures all round making for a more
comfortable ride for us and our vehicles.
When driving through outback Australian country side your
eyes are constantly monitoring the land ahead watching for potential hazards.
At one stage we spotted an emu on our right running towards the road ahead of
us. We slowed but unfortunately a vehicle coming up behind us decided to pass
us at the same time. The emu continued on its path running onto the road just
in front of the passing vehicle when the vehicles rear was just passing the
front of our vehicle. Luckily for us we anticipated the approaching peril and
braked to a stop. The passing vehicle braked hard, avoiding the emu then swerved
onto our side of the road possibly hoping to avoid any other pending emu’s and
we avoided them both.
We briefly stopped at the National Park visitor information
centre, obtaining what information was available about the park and headed out
to the camp ground setting camp just prior to dusk. The air temperature was
cold, and we cranked up our diesel heater, replacing the 13-degree temperature
with nice comfortable 24 degrees inside where we assessed our options for Mungo
National Park over tea.
The next morning, we were up early, a chilly 5-degrees to
drive the Mungo Track, a one way 70-kilometre loop circuit, linking with all
the main attractions of the Mungo landscape.
We had obtained a paper titled “Route notes for the
self-guided drive tour,” with 39 numbered post locations with a brief
description for each location. The first main stop was at the prime location
for viewing the walls of china.
The ambient air temperature was very cold inhibiting our
senses and apparently the largish kangaroo population whom we were regularly
stopping to avoid along our route with a mix of emus.
The close-up views from the red top lookout were most
appealing.
Rabbits were once in huge population with the rich lime
sediment soil making for good rabbit warrens. Allen’s Plain Hut was undermined
by the rabbits causing it to tumble down.
There was a Mallee scrub walking track with interpretive
signage along the route which was interestingly informative.
The below picture shows the size of a network of fire trails
for protection resulting from major 1974 fires.
Vigars Well was once used as a horse drawn coach and dray
watering hole where fresh water was available close to the land surface. We saw
kangaroos and emus having a drink in two smallish water holes. We walked up the
nearby sand dunes, viewing the surrounding landscape slowly being engulfed by
the moving dunes.
The remains of the old Zanci Homestead with pine shedding,
pine posted stock yards and shearing shed were all interesting viewing with
great interpretive signage where you could have spent an hour or two reading.
Even when we were about to move on a mistletoe bird appeared enjoying its
reflection on our vehicle.
Back at the National Park visitor centre with some fantastic
interpretive displays, including the surrounding areas and a great 19th
century shearing shed.
Late back at camp we rested for a short period then returned
to the walls lookout to view the colours of the changing scenery at sunset.
We enjoyed our stay at Mungo NP, with great scenery, well
defined walking trails with copious orientation signage along the way, a great
display at the visitors centre and good signage at pertinent locations around
the park. Mungo NP is part of the Willandra Lakes Region, a World Heritage Area
having great archaeological significance. We accessed a small controlled region
with most areas only accessible to people of special interest and some other
areas accessible on authorised guided tours.
The below pictures show changing times with the difference
from viewing in the 1960’s when this region was controlled by pastoral
properties and today, 2018 showing a vehicle parking area a long way back.
Part 2
for this entry - Yanga NP.
The drive out of Mungo NP was far more pleasant than driving
in, without the hard jarring or feeling your body and vehicles were taking a
bashing travelling on corrugated and uneven surfaces. Which reiterated the
benefits gained by lowering the pressure in the tyres about 15 – 20 psi from
our normal bituminized surface travelling tyre pressures.
We were back at Balranald at 1.15pm, it was a Saturday and
we had forgotten about country towns all shutting up at 1pm for the weekend,
subsequently we missed out restocking with some fresh food. We did get an
unexpected bonus with the information centre having a couple of hot showers for
use. It was good to have a hot shower without the thoughts for conserving water
and even then, our instincts were for short showers.
Our next stop was just out of Balranald at Mamanga
Campground, part of the Yanga National Park. It was a beautiful setting on the
banks of the Murrumbidgee River. We walked from the campground to view the
century old Yanga Woolshed built to accommodate 3000 sheep for 40 shearers at
130 metres in length. It was the most impressive shearing shed we have ever
seen. The below pictures best show the setup which would have been some sight
when loading up the river boats with the bales of wool for delivery.
Leaving the next morning, we came across an emu with its leg
stuck in the fence. We stopped, and Steve put his heavy gloves on freeing the
emu whom immediately ran away. We no sooner started driving and a kangaroo came
bounding over the fence into our path.
We made our way to Yanga Homestead looking forward to
viewing the inside of the homestead. The site was open 7 days a week, but the
homestead was only open for viewing Monday to Friday and we were there on a
Sunday. It was enjoyable walking around and another place to add to our wish
list next time we travelled this way.
About another 39 kilometres down the road was our camp for
the night at Willows campground still in Yanga NP. This location touted as a
location for plenty of bird life. It was a quiet location including quiet for
bird life. Steve did get up at first light, 4 degrees inside the caravan, put
on his thermals and a thick layer of clothing, opened the door, to an even
colder outside air temperature where the cold air felt like it was biting into
his face, just to go bird spotting. Mary did not move from her warm bed till
Steve returned about an hour later, turning on the heater and once the inside
temperature reached 18 degrees Mary decided it was ok to get out of bed.
We still enjoyed our camp. The previous afternoon we lit the
fire to build up some hot coals for cooking a savoury damper and baked spuds.
The fire was comforting providing a delightful favourable internal warming
evening meal.
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