2 - 2023 February on Yorke Peninsula - South Australia

 

Entry 2 – 2023 – February - South Australia.

We continued with our Yorke Peninsula get away. We seem to be returning again and again, year after year, to some of our favourite spectacular scenery locations. We never seemly to tire from its bush settings surrounded by beautiful rugged high energy coastlines. It is a special feeling when you tickle all your well-being senses.

Our last couple of days at Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park the weather forecaster had predicted for very strong winds. In other words, it blew a bloody gale. The ocean was covered with white capped peaks as far as the eye could see. It was uncomfortable to be outside with difficulty just standing up in the strong winds.

The wind was accompanied by constant showers of rain and we found ourselves relegated to the confines of our caravan. Always looking for something to keep us occupied we decided it was an ideal time to go on a bit of an exploration road trip around the national park. The bushy terrain was a lush green indicating this area had also benefited from the extensive Australian rains from the previous year.

The new revamped Stenhouse Bay campground had been completed. We remember our utter disappointment with the authorities many years prior with the revamp of the Pondalowie Bay campground. They had set it up with around 50 individual sites but had neglected to consider the popularity of caravans. Most of these sites could only be utilized by smallish tents. There were only 9 caravan sites allocated, hampered in size, restrictive to enter and there have been no improvements.

Thankfully the new Stenhouse Bay campground with around 30 sites had been laid out in a manner all campgrounds and caravan parks should be. The bays were generous with easy access for the driver to monitor while reversing into the site, able to easily view the caravan’s position into the site from the driver’s window.

The travelling tourists were already showing their appreciation with a high percentage of sites in use. This was in contrast to the larger Pondalowie Bay campground with about 5 of its 50 sites in use this same day. The 5 consisted of 3 caravans and 2 tents. Though we prefer the Pondalowie Bay campground due to its closer proximity for access to many of the more popular locations. Still Stenhouse Bay was only 14 kilometres from “Pondie.”

We also stopped to view the powerful ocean waves at different locations in the national park. The wind was beating up a large swell, creating a lot of white water. It was an awesome sight.

We were aware of the requirement to keep our vehicle speed down around the national park for the safety of everyone. At one stage Mary was in need to slam the vehicle brakes on when an emu sprinted out from behind some bushes directly into our passage. We did appreciate the burst of speed an emu can obtain. Any other animal and it would have been “contact!”

Even walking along the pathways in the campground we regularly had the need to give way to wandering emus. At times an emu would grunt loudly at us showing their disapproval of our presence and our heart rate would increase looking up into their eyes. It all added to the excitement of the delightful Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park. It is such a special location.

With the wind continuing to “blow,” our national parks time limitation expired requiring us to move on.

The ferocity of the wind was unsettling and we were undecided where next to best set camp. There were some beautiful bush camps available between Marion Bay and the Corny Point area. We weren’t inclined to set camp where we had to contend with uncomfortable strong wind and additional crowds of people about.

Our favourite camp area along this section was Swincer Rocks campground. It is very open, vulnerable to the ocean winds. We found people don’t stay long due to the unsettling wind factor. There is one site partially protected from the SW ocean winds by a small hump which we have managed to secure most times when we have previously visited.

We decided to have a look at Swincer Rocks feeling nervous with our decision to just have a look. We should not have been surprised to find the campground deserted, not one soul present. We were delighted to secure our favourite camp site. The strength of the wind was the fiercest we had ever experienced at Swincer Rocks and we bunkered down for the day with some appreciated protection from our hump.

By the following day the gale force winds had abated but it was still quite strong. We appreciated being able to stretch out our legs walking to the other end of Swincer Rocks beach. Our phone app showed we had completed around 4,000 steps at a distance of about 2 kilometres from our camp to the other end of the beach. The sand surface provided us with a good work out, not hard or too soft under our feet.

We have found camping near a beach on Yorke Peninsula to generally be a windy experience. It took another couple of days for the wind to settle to a comfortable level. This included for the swell to abate. Day 4 at Swincer Rocks, the ambient air temperature, combined with more a comfortable wind level and calming seas enticed us into the ocean for a swim. It still felt a bit like we were in a washing machine getting tossed about.

The ocean water was a refreshing chilly temperature. Our dip in the ocean waters finally provided that all over satisfaction, adding to the complete effect of camping at the beach. Not only were the views most satisfying, now our bodies had that crusty dried salt feel about them. Perfect beachside camping.

Mostly we would walk north from our camp site, drawn in by the magnetism of the beautiful beach setting. We did manage to ignore this magnetic field one day, walking in the opposite direction along a rocky cliff top. After about 15 minutes we found ourselves at the end of another beautiful beach, Gleesons Landing. There were even some good-looking surf waves.

We do like the all-round viewing from our caravan windows. When we are at a special scenic location without people about, we often go to bed for the night with our curtains open. Swincer Rocks was one of those fabulous locations. Early one morning we watched the moon reflections dancing on the ocean waters as it disappeared into the ocean depths all from the comfortable position of our bed.

There were many glorious sunsets to view. Some we viewed from our caravan windows and some whilst strolling along the beach for an evening walk.

Once again Swincer Rocks delighted all our good feel senses.

The commencement of 2023 the local council had increased the nightly fee from $10 to $20 per night at the bush camping locations scattered around the lower regions of Yorke Peninsula. This was one of the few campgrounds without any facilities. There were signs where it appeared the council were in the process of constructing a toilet at Swincer rocks. We thought this to be a good thing. Once completed we suspect the volume of campers will increase, diminishing the “wow” factor for us, with most of our previous visits having minimal to often no other people about. The below picture was from our last walk to the other end of “our beach.”

It was time for us to move on. As an added incentive, strong winds returned to “our bit of paradise,” acting like a crow bar, helping to lever us away. Just up the road a bit we propped at Berry Bay, another great beach location Steve had fond memories from his younger days. There was a school group utilizing the beach for some aquatic’s activities. We were already missing our near deserted Swincer Rocks beach.

Around the 75 kilometre mark up the road we propped at the town of Minlaton, time for a cuppa. We knocked on the door of another couple whom we met whilst out and about in our caravan. There was lots of chatter. We ended up having our evening meal together at a local café’. We camped the night in their driveway leaving after breakfast. More good times with Rob and Glenda.

Yorke Peninsula primarily comprises of agricultural land. Travelling about we spend some of our time observing the paddocks guessing what type of crop had been sown. Then there are the agriculture road hazards to be mindful of.

It was around a 3-hour drive to our home. We were feeling a little bit sad to be leaving Yorke Peninsula and on a spur of the moment thing drove into the town of Ardrossan. There was a nice free camp location nearby the centre of town and we thought we would stay for a bit if a site was available. To our surprise and delight we parked up in a free site. Ten minutes later we were walking along the main street, looking at the op shop, bakery and general sights. It was then into the supermarket where we obtained some food to replenish some of our evaporated basic supplies. We were instantly in a much happier mood, adding another night spent on Yorke Peninsula.

We had a good get away enjoying the great Australian outdoors. It certainly provided a much-appreciated boost to our well-being. It was still early times in the new year with a need to return to our home base. We were in the final process of planning out our 2023 activities. Part of this involves managing a couple of weeks of medical appointments, hopefully addressing our personal maintenance needs, where we can do whatever, whenever we want for the rest of the year. In the mix we had a duty of care to our tow tug with a service booked. And we had a growing list of things to do prior clearance for departure.

1 - 2023 - South Australia

Entry 1 – 2023 - South Australia.

 

This will be the 11^th year of recording our retirement lifestyle activities, where we continue to indulge with our special time together, loving life.

As per normal, life was busy prior and after Christmas 2022 attending to all those needs finalising our 2022 activities with January 2023 just as busy preparing for 2023 at our home base.

We pushed our bodies, completing our self-imposed minimum set target of requirements to satisfy our psychological thoughts for required home and other maintenance obligations.

Some of those set target jobs, painting our carport and home front including a general tidying. Mary made new seat covers for our caravan. At Steve’s parents’ home, cleaning pathways, bathroom maintenance and obtaining a new computer for his mum. As mothers do, Steve’s mum kept a close eye on his progress. Mary chipped in doing her bits.

We were getting accustomed to the feeling of weary bodies at days end, sensing it felt like we had returned to working life activities. We thought; we are retired and have no desire to continue a working lifestyle. Let’s get out of here and we did.

With some phone calls made we connected the tow tug and caravan, heading out into the great Australian outdoors. We started with some initial stop overs, catching up with people we had missed during our 2022 travels.

First stop was about 75 kilometres down the road with like-minded people Petra and Jeff. We stayed at their property for a couple of nights.

There was the constant chatter catching up with one another’s news. We spent more enjoyable time together with a day’s outing viewing the Goolwa barrages. This is the last lock on the Murray River before it flows into the Southern Ocean.

The Murray was currently in flood, reaching its second highest level on record, eclipsed by the 1956 floods. Upstream towns and communities were experiencing some devastating flooding. This was the first time we had seen all the Goolwa barrage gates open. For us, it was normal to see them all closed, with a height difference between the river and ocean side.

A drive to the Murray River viewing area overlooking its exit into the ocean showed a lot of people about with the same idea. There was even a pop-up food truck doing a roaring trade at a location normally deserted. The government, many years prior, had introduced permanent dredging activities to keep the Murray mouth open to the ocean for the good of the ecology. Even with the constant dredging the access channel between the ocean and the river was quite narrow. The flow of fresh water from the Murray River into the ocean had expanded the opening considerably.

There was an overnight stop at Mary’s family farm where we caught up with her mum and two brothers.

Later in the year we will clock up our 40^th wedding anniversary. One of our groomsmen lived up the road a bit nearby the town of Berri located on the Murray River.

Normally we would travel the road from the town of Loxton to Berri, about a 10-minute drive. This road connects with Berri after travelling over a bridge high above the Murray River. Normally the Murray River would be around a hundred metres or so wide. Unfortunately, this road like many other roads within the vicinity of the Murray River was closed due to being submerged under flood waters, with the Murray width now measuring kilometres at many locations.

 

Our time of arrival at this location of the Murray River coincided with a drop of about one and a half metres from its peak flood height. Our shortest option of available deviation roads, an additional distance of about 35 kilometres had only been re-opened the very morning of our arrival.

We stayed at John and Kathy’s home for three nights. We were included into their busy social lives with an Australia Day luncheon at a local club and an evening meal at a friend’s home.

Many roads around the district were still closed due to flooding. All of these locations were barricaded with traffic wardens present, preventing access to flooded areas. Even with John and Kath’s local knowledge we were unable to get near most flooded areas hoping for some realistic viewing and a special photograph. The below pictures are some of our attempts to highlight the extent of the flooding.

Many of the main townships spread out along the Murray River were already protected by established levy banks. Many of these levy banks had been further reinforced to cater for the expected heightened levels of flood waters. Below is a picture of the additional levy banks established at the township of Berri.

Late on the day of our arrival the Lyrup ferry resumed vehicle transportation across the Murray River with weight restrictions imposed. This was the first of many vehicle ferries to resume operation in South Australia since the ceasing of operation due to the flooding. Normally we would drive down a steepish decline to enter onto a ferry including the Lyrup ferry. On this occasion we felt like we were driving upwards onto the ferry. An eerie feeling.

Nearby the Lyrup ferry we regularly camp for a night or two alongside the pictured shed.

The next picture is of the Overland Corner, a pub still in operation since the horse and cart days. The previous year we had camped for a couple of nights in the vicinity of the trees near the top right of the picture. The Murray River normally would be out of sight further over to the right of the picture. Over a kilometre of road to get to this location now submerged beneath the flood waters.

 Kath has lived in the Riverland all her years and had never seen flooding of this scale.

The flood waters were slowly making its way along the Murray River, originating from the large scale of rains during October and November the previous year in New South Wales and Victoria.

At the town of Morgan, you could see the ferry parked up on the Murray River, appearing to be above the height of the entrance road.

Moving on, our next camp location was at Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park located on the south western tip of Yorke Peninsula. A location familiar to us and much loved. It is an area known for its spectacular coastal landscapes with beautiful beaches and great walks. We booked a campsite for 5 nights at Pondalowie Bay campground, another beautiful setting. We had emus and kangaroos wandering around our campsite regularly. It felt quite special, watching from our caravan the wild life move about in their own environment.

We wandered around Shell Beach, mesmerised by the ocean colours and the nearby scenery.

Back in time Steve loved to ride the waves on his surfboard at the Pondalowie Bay surf break. Surfing requires a good level of fitness and agility. Unfortunately, Steve no longer has a level of fitness required to balance a surfboard and negotiate the rigors of lumpy waves. We watched a group of surfers riding the waves for a while. A large number of the surfers present were riding the waves with a rather sedate manner. It was good to see some senior surfing members out in the waves. It was a young person’s environment during Steve’s surfing days. 

Ocean sunsets are generally quite a spectacle and the stormy sea activity near our campground provided the desired spectacle. Beautiful!

Ethel Beach was another enjoyable location. Our previous visit in early 2022 we could view a fair amount of the lower structure of the Ethel Ship Wreck. On this visit much of it was covered by sand. What remained evident at Ethel Beach was the imposing force of the ocean. We watched a young lad attempting to ride some of its waves.

We walked at various locations each day continuing to be mesmerised by the unique scenery of Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park. It is described as a High Energy Coastline, experiencing some of the highest energy waves in Australia. There are 22 ship wrecks recorded in the near vicinity of the National Park, lots of rocky outcrops. There are many ocean going ships, fishing boats etc using this area of ocean and you could see some moving about along the coastline.

 

We do love Dhilba Guuranda-Innes National Park.