10. Warrumbungle NP

 

Next on our wish list was the Warrumbungle National Park located near Coonabarabran and this is another one of those “wow” places with beautiful rugged mountain scenery and plenty of walking tracks. 

In January 2013, 90 percent of the national park was destroyed by a major bush fire which also destroyed most of the infrastructure including the visitor information centre, staff accommodation, walking tracks, camping areas including most of the parks loos along with the loss of the flora and fauna. A very short time later this was followed by major flooding where a large amount of the top soil was washed away. 

Due to the extent of damage sustained from the fire and flooding it was categorized as a 1 in a 10,000 year event.

 

One of many peaks with burnt tree skeletons in foreground

It was quite interesting to view the different stages of regeneration of the flora in amongst the burnt trees which were so prevalent.

Look no sticks for added balance

Hundreds of bird boxes had been placed in amongst the burnt trees providing accommodation to attract the return of the birds. We saw plenty of kangaroos, one goanna, crows, one king parrot, apostle and noisy minor birds, while participating in some to the walks around the national park. Of interest we only saw one kookaburra in comparison of our regular kookaburra sightings.

 

Great walks amongst beautiful scenery

This was such an attractive place that we stretched our stay out again.

 

Spectacular back grounds

 

We also enjoyed the company of a couple we met early September (Brian & Anne) who showed up and set camp alongside of us.

 

 

Our setting with Brian & Anne's caravan in foreground

 

 

9. Apsley Falls

We had been putting it off for too long. It was now time to start clocking up some kilometres. The alarm was set at 7 am for a 7.30 am get away. Well we woke to the noise of chattering birds at 5.45 am and we were travelling by 6.15 am. 

We had decided to head inland to the Warrumbungle National Park located near Coonabarabran, about 500 kilometres east of Port Macquarie. 

Our departure just happened to be a Sunday and we had heard that our chosen route was very windy which was also popular with motor cyclists adding another travelling hazard for consideration. 

We were delighted by the spectacle of the magnificent scenery travelling through thick forested terrain. Patches of low hanging cloud just added to the view. Yes there seemed to be an endless amount of recommended 25 & 35 kilometre speed limited corners keeping our travelling speed down at a slow rate, even more so with a caravan in tow.

 

Some cold looking air early mornings

For the first two and a half hours of travel the roads were reasonably quiet, and then the motor bikes started to appear travelling in both directions, at a very fast rate of speed in comparison to our rate of speed. 

We were starting to feel weary from the long period of driving (an hour is usually plenty for us these days) and we thought it might be a good time to remove ourselves from the road. At 9.30 am we pulled into the Apsley Falls camping ground in the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. 

It was time for breakfast with a cuppa, followed by a power nap on our very comfortable caravan bed. We opened our eyes at 1 pm feeling much better.

Deep Gorges

A walk along some of the paths at Apsley Falls was very rewarding, with spectacular views of deep gorges way below with plenty of lookout platforms provided. The water falls were quite spectacular, even with what seemed to be a light flow of water.

 

Apsley Falls

We could have spent several days at this location and also time at several other locations we had passed along our day’s route.

A few steps to another falls viewing platform

Huge suspension bridge

Camp ground

NSW national parks supply the campground location, bench table & seats, fire place with BBQ plate, the fire wood, flushing loos, scenic setting and we supply our accommodation.


Campground to the left

8. Pt Macquarie area

Our next location was at the Crowdy Bay National Park where we stayed at the Diamond Head campground. This was another great setting with nice green grass underfoot, views of the close by ocean, a beautiful beach, and kangaroos grazing around our caravan and a great friendly atmosphere with many a conversation with other campers.

 

Wild flowers & beaches of Crowdy Bay N.P.

We spent a day in the company of our eldest son’s, in-laws, (officially in 3 months) who acted as our tour guides ferrying us around to view the magnificent scenery of their township at Laurieton. It was such a beautiful location and for us, clearly obvious why they chose to retire in this area. And yes we could give this location some serious consideration once we got to that stage in life as it ticked all of our required boxes. Luckily we still like the location of our house with its close proximity to all of life’s essentials.

 

Lookout view of Laurieton with Marion & Greg

Our last night at Crowdy Bay National Park we experienced a squally storm and in the morning we were unable to open our door to get outside as one of the awning roof support bars had dropped down jamming up against the door preventing us from opening it. There were no neighbours in sight to call out to for help, so Steve pushed out a window fly screen and climbed out of the window. Luckily the outside table was under the window. That was another first for us.

Steve escaping out of the window

 

Our next stopover was at a caravan park in the township of Port Macquarie. We walked around the harbour area, viewed the 1884 built historic St Thomas Church, toured the museum, visited Roto House built in 1891, investigated the koala hospital, the lighthouse and nearby beaches. Port Macquarie was in a nice setting but a little too city like for us.

Historic Roto House

One of 50 different koala sculptures on display

 

A koala resting up in the Koala Hospital



 

 

7. Yuraygir NP

 It was time to start making our way south with so many places that we would have liked to experience but alas we didn’t have the time to allocate. 

We drove into the Woody Heads camping ground at the southern end of Bundjalung National Park and it did look like a great location but we were turned away by the ranger as the camp ground was booked out for the period we required.

After spending a couple of hours exploring the area including the township of Iluka we decided to stay at the show grounds in the township of Maclean.

 

Maclean street power poles painted with many tartan designs

 

We enjoyed walking around Maclean, attending the Saturday morning street markets and exploring the surrounding area.

 

Next was Yuraygir National Park where we camped in another great location at Lake Arragan camping area.

 

Lake Arragan campground

 

When we come across those great locations we would generally spend 4 – 7, plus days basking in the atmosphere of the setting obtaining our dose of well-being and Lake Arragan was another one of those locations that we were pleased to have experienced for at least a couple of days.

 

Lake Arragan local fauna

 

Our next stopover was at the township of Bellingen where we stayed at the show grounds. Staying at showgrounds has worked quite well for us. The fees are easier on the pocket, you generally have a lot more of your own space, most of them are ok with you washing your rigs, there are generally no time limitations for stopovers and as we utilized on this occasion we didn’t depart till late afternoon once we had viewed our list of local desirability’s.  

Once again we enjoyed walking around the township of Bellingen and exploring the nearby attractions with highlights for us walking along the boardwalk at Urunga and walking through the rainforest of Dorrigo National Park.

 

Crystal Falls - Dorrigo NP 

 

Photo of Mary taken from behind Crystal Falls

Urunga boardwalk

Heading south we next propped near the township of Macksville camping at Gumma Crossing Reserve. This was another great location in a forested camping area with our views from the caravan window looking across the waters of Warren Creek.

 

Gumma Crossing Reserve

 

It was a great setting with other campers also being stimulated by the locale, creating a friendly atmosphere. One night turned into 3 nights at the reserve, sharing an evening fire plus a camp fire cooked damper with our neighbours. At one stage we were chatting with Kel and Robyn (the neighbours) and Mary was amused to notice that Steve was actually taller than Kel! Kel even stated that it was nice to be eye to eye with someone when chatting.

 

 

 

 

Our setting - Gumma Crossing Reserve



6. Bundjalung NP

We heard that it was very crowded closer to the coastal regions with an influx of people during school holidays. Thus we spent the next week staying at the show grounds of Kyogle and Alstonville where we explored the local regions.

 

A visit to the coastal town of Ballina revealed a great setting which showed why the coastal areas were so busy with school holidays.

 

On a visit to the township of Evans Head, another coastal town in a beautiful setting we saw a sign post publicizing an aviation museum with an F-111 fighter bomber on show, so we followed the signage to the airport.

 

Up close to F - 111 fighter bomber

This turned out to be another great experience where we were able to get up close and touch an   F – 111 plane and read about some of its history as well as viewing some other WWII relics. 

Our next planned destination was to camp in a beach side setting at Bundjalung National Park about 60 kilometres south of Alstonville.

On the morning of our relocation we slept in about an hour longer than normal and then discovered we had lost another hour due to the arrival of day light saving. That wasn’t a good way to begin a moving day. 

We relocated to Black Rock camping ground at Bundjalung National Park. It was a beautiful sunny 30 C and as soon as we had set up camp it was down to the beach for a refreshing swim.

 

Black Rock beach about 200 metres from camp site

We dipped our heads in the ocean a couple of times each day, body surfing the waves and walking for hours along the beach. 

This was such a nice location where we were regularly entertained by the migrating whales frolicking in the water.

 

Evening camp site visitor

We so enjoy time spent at beautiful beach locations when the weather is nice and warm. The only thing missing was not having our boogie boards with us for this trip as we hadn’t been expecting superb beach conditions at this time of the year and had left our boards at home trying to cut back on the amount of gear we were carting around Australia. How silly were we!

 

5. Border Ranges N P

We didn’t make a decision for our next destination till 10 minutes prior to our departure from Mullumbimby. The weather forecast had been for 7 days of rain over a radius of a few hundred kilometres with an added complication of school holidays for the next two weeks which eliminated the nearby coastal locations. 

So we headed about a hundred kilometres inland to the Border Ranges National Park, a World Heritage listed rainforest located at the southern end of Lamington National Park, Queensland. We set up camp in the Sheepstation Creek camping area.

 

Camped at Sheepstation camp ground

 

As soon as we made camp we felt a calmness flow through our bodies. The rainforest setting with a view of greenery from every window of the caravan was sensational. The chorus of many birds in the background was wonderful with the shrillest sounds coming from whip-birds and bell birds.

 

A whip bird calling

 

Early evening we were mesmerized by groups of fire flies. They looked like aircraft flying at night with a flashing body.

We contentedly walked for hours along many tracks through the rainforest, day after day. It was such a pleasurable experience.

 

Rainforest walking paths

 

It was exceptionally stimulating to be in a rainforest environment which will be imbedded in our good thoughts memory cells for years as no photograph could show just how beautiful and striking the rainforest environment is.

Once again a couple of planned nights eventuated into seven nights spent at Sheepstation Creek camp.

 

 

 

 

4. Mullumbimby BT Muster

Mullumbimby was an interesting town with a mixture of alternate lifestyle people living in the community. The central part of town had quite a variety of shops and required facilities all within an easy one & a half kilometre walk from the show grounds where we were camped.

 

Bushtracker Caravan Owners muster 2015

We obtained goods from the op shops, post office, supermarkets, bakery, hair dressers, utilized the doctors, pharmacist; physio, a pub meal and enjoyed browsing many other shops. 

Nearby locations from Mullumbimby we enjoyed a beach side group breakfast at the Brunswick surf lifesaving club and visiting Byron Bay where we got to watch whales playing in the ocean.

 

Baking an apricot pie for the cook off competition
 

We participated in many organised activities at the caravan muster with a daily happy hour where everyone gathered around a central area with several fires located in drums furnishing warmth, many workshop activities providing plenty of information about our caravans and some secret women’s business where the men were only permitted to enter if there was any of the special snacks left over for them to demolish. There were group meals, a trivia night, a bingo night, a fancy dress evening and many other activities on offer to participate in. We had success with the daily quiz and the bingo night.

 

Shared roast evening meal

 

It was a busy 10 days with plenty of conversation and sound nights sleeping.

 

3. Surat and friends

Heading south and we spent 3 nights at a beautiful free camping area on the outskirts of Surat. 

The small township of Surat was another proud town with beautiful parks, a fantastic museum and all the facilities that a traveller would need. Friends Rob & Glenda from Yorke Peninsula in South Australia showed up with their daughter who lived nearby on a Station Property and we enjoyed one another’s company, eating well and keeping warm around a camp fire in the evenings.

 

Sharing an evening campfire is always good

Rob & Glenda’s daughter said her goodbyes, returning to work leaving us to travel together enjoying one another’s company. 

 

Continuing south our next stop over was at another nice setting along the bank of the Moonie River at the 150 year old Nindigully Pub. This is another popular location set up to entice travellers to visit with a free camping area provided and in return generating income at the pub providing employment, keeping the area as a viable set-up and it was well patronized.

 

Signage enticing visitors from main road

Signage coming from opposite direction

 

An hour’s drive east and we propped for the night, enjoying time exploring the small township of Talwood.

Then another hour’s drive and we were camped in the show grounds at the largish township of Goondiwindi where the tow tug and caravan obtained a clean and the tow tug received a service. We topped up with fuel and food and explored some of the township.

 

One of our aims this year was to participate in the Bushtracker Owners Group caravan muster at Mullumbimby near Byron Bay New South Wales and it was time to start heading that way.

 

The township of Texas was our next stop over where a free camping area was provided a couple of kilometres out of the town in a beautiful bush setting. It was well patronized and we enjoyed chatting with many happy people while watching a variety of different coloured parrots flying amongst the trees.

Texas camping area

 

King Parrot
 

One night turned into two nights which turned into four nights at Texas. It was hard to take a walk without being held up by dialogue with other campers.

From Texas we spent 3 days travelling through picturesque country side over a distance of about 360 kilometres to Mullumbimby.

Mullumbimby was to be our location for the next 10 days where 88 Bushtracker caravans gathered for the 2015 muster.

 

 

2. Roma Qld

 

Our caravan water pump had stopped operating and not being able to access our tank water was becoming a problem requiring attention. We departed Carnarvon at first light in the morning and made our way to Roma which was one of the larger regional towns within a few hundred kilometres for this area of Queensland. 

At Roma we managed to obtain an agricultural water pump that was suitable for our needs and Steve spent a few hours fitting the new water pump and adjusting the pipes to suit. 

We were all smiles when the tank water flowed into the sink complements of the new water pump. 

Once the water pump was fixed we seemed to relax and were then able to plan our next move without having our judgement clouded by water access problems. As Roma seemed to be able to provide for most of our needs we reassessed our desires and decided to stay on at Roma to attend to other not so urgent personal matters, thus clearing the deck to continue our travels without any what ifs. 

Whilst at Roma we attended the cattle sale yards where we watched the sale and movement of the stock. We also visited a beautiful 100 year old church viewing its architecture. We were camped at the local gun club and spent one afternoon watching a clay disc shooting practice season and had tea in the club rooms.

 

Roma cattle yard sales

Roma Gun Club - Clay target shooting

Leaving Roma we felt quite relaxed and travelled about 60 kilometres to the township of Yuleba where we set up in a free camping area at Judd’s Lagoon a few kilometres away from the highway which was a beautiful setting with once again plenty of happy travellers enjoying a chat. 

That evening the new pump malfunctioned and Steve ended up disassembling it to find it clogged with what looked like slivers of delaminated water hose. 

We were at a loss for the water issues as all seemed fine when we left Roma. It was decided to return to Roma for ease of access to items we may need to fix the water issue.

Due to the enormity of the task with different possibilities we began an elimination process by starting with the easiest processes first. This involved draining the water out of our tanks and refilling with new water. This process seemed to work with most of the debris disappearing. So we left everything as is and adopted a wait and see. 

Another camper volunteered his knowledge to assist with disassembling the old water pump and it revealed that the main bearing had seized. 

This was a good exercise for not only learning how the water pump operated but it provided more thoughts on the assessment of our water issues. The most likely scenario with the old water pump slowly loosing suction capabilities till it finally seized and the fitment of a new water pump with such good suction that it had sucked up debris that had been building up on the bottom of the water tank over a long period of time.



Interior of 100 year old church

 

 

1. Carnarvon Gorge NP

After spending a few nights in the Mount Moffatt camping area of Carnarvon NP we travelled "around the block, a few hundred kilometres" to the more popular, commercialized section of Carnarvon National Park at Carnarvon Gorge. No camping outside of school holidays is permitted in this area of the national park and we had to stay in the packed caravan park of Takarakka Bush Resort located 4 kilometres out of the national park from where we had to drive into the national park for the spectacular walks.

 

Mt Moffatt - The Chimneys

On our first morning we were up at sunlight and commenced our main planned walk from the national park at 7.30 am. It was a chilly 6 C and remained quite cool for the first couple of hours walking under a beautiful tree canopy. 

The hike starts at a creek crossing where you are required to stone hop across the flowing water. Mary was half way across when she stepped the wrong way and ended up stuck with her posterior pointing up creek, while facing downwards with both hands hanging onto her hiking stick perched out over the water leaving her in imminent danger of crashing belly first into the drink. Steve dashed across the rocks to her aid, rescuing her from the pending danger. 

We were grateful to have avoided disaster before we had even commenced our walk but there was another immediate issue that required a strategy, how to deal with the other 19 creek crossing to our planned destination and then the return trip retracing our tracks. For the second creek crossing Mary utilized two hiking sticks which thankfully provided better stability for her to successfully rock hop across the water. 

 

Mary rock hopping

Our previous visit to this area was some 23 - 24 years ago when we were younger and fitter with our 7, 5 & 3 year old children. We had completed this hike with the aid of a stroller where our youngest would joyously sprint across the creek crossings and then collapse into the stroller till the next creek crossing.

 

Steve rock hopping

Our aim was hopefully to be able to retrace our hike without the kids but with much older feeling bodies. What we didn’t factor was that our memory had somewhat faded and instead of the 14 kilometre hike we completed with the kids we ended up hiking about 23 kilometres which included hundreds of extra steps due to a brain malfunction.

 

Wards Canyon

It was a very slow painful return hike back to our vehicle some 10 hours after departure. It was fantastic scenery but a bodily experience we don’t wish to replicate ever! 

Another evening we participated in an astronomy session where we got to view some areas of our galaxy through a telescope with the evening finale viewing Saturn. This was another enjoyable experience for us. 

Once again we were reminded how we prefer to camp away from caravan parks. As per usual we were packed in with a neighbour who snored very loud during the night and at times we could clearly hear their flatulence, “robust pop offs.”

Carnarvon Gorge scenery and atmosphere was great for the soul but traumatic for the feet and legs.

 

Mickey Creek