Entry 11 – 2024 – Darwin to Adelaide
We spent a couple of nights, camped at Robbie Robbins Reserve, located about 15 minutes’ drive from the central business precinct of Darwin. It was ok, though there was constant traffic noise from the nearby Stuart Highway including during the night. About a month prior we had stayed at the Coolalinga Caravan Park about another 15 minutes further out, still on the Stuart Highway. There was noticeably less traffic noise and we thought this to be a better location for our next Darwin visit.
Whilst at Darwin we viewed the World War II storage tunnels. It was mostly reading the provided information located within the large underground tunnels. Due to the excessive humidity from the constant water seepage within the tunnels, our bodies were only able to tolerate about 45 minutes of time within the tunnels
We splashed out enjoying a couple of meals at different restaurants and a visit to the Royal Flying Doctor Service tourist facility.
We had previously spent extended time in Darwin and nothing sparked enough interest for a re-visit. We did visit new locations for us, leaving some other un-visited locations for our next stopover.
It was time to head south. We spent more time at Nitmiluk National Park - Leliyn Edith Falls campground. There was a marked increase in the water temperatures in the upper falls pool and the lower main pool water. Our bodies still appreciated the refreshing cool waters, then without the initial, oh-wow, shivery effect. There was also less water flow. It was much easier to swim against the flow of water at the base of the water falls. The water level in both pools had dropped by about 10-20 centimetres from our visit a couple of months prior. The main pool now with an additional step out of the water at its entry point and the upper pool rock walls displaying a dark colouring at its previous water line height.
Over the last few weeks, the day time temperatures had increased by several degrees. Day after day the temperature hovered between 38 to 40 C. Our bodies had initially coped, but eventually they succumbed to the oppressive heat. We continued south with wishful thoughts for some more tolerable temperatures.
A check on the weather bureau climate predictions along our route showed to expect it to be hot for about another week. Some locations were experiencing 16-degree temperatures above their average at the time.
We propped at Mataranka for a dip in the Bitter Springs waters. It was so refreshing we decided to stay at the nearby caravan park for a couple of nights and some more.
We were provided with a beautiful shady site at the caravan park. Access to electricity to power our air conditioner was appreciated. It was nice to run the power-hungry air conditioner without the need to monitor the power drainage on our batteries.
In between our walks to Bitter Springs and its pleasurable waters, our bodies much appreciated, the coldish temperature within our caravan. In these circumstances we didn’t grumble about caravan park fees!
During our third morning at Mataranka Steve experienced a bit of a medical issue. We asked google for an answer and Mary said she wasn’t happy with the possible diagnosis. After a couple of phone calls we obtained a doctor’s appointment available in an hour. The only other option was a couple of weeks away.
Steve quickly disconnected the caravan from the tow tug and we were on our way back to Katherine, around 100 kilometres up the road. Of interest our overall average fuel consumption kept dropping during our drive to Katherine, even travelling at the speed limit of 130 kph. Towing a caravan certainly increases fuel consumption.
The doctor’s prognosis showed Steve had suffered a inguinal hernia which needed an operation for fixing. Steve required an ultrasound for confirmation of prognosis. Unfortunately, the staff at Katherine Hospital were unhelpful. A couple of months prior we had attended Katherine Hospital to obtain a blood test. Staff claimed they were too busy and that was with only one person waiting in the emergency department for treatment. The blood test was obtained at another clinic, by different staff under sufferance. At the time of recording these events our home doctor had not been notified of the results. This was after two additional phone calls to the blood analysing company requesting for our doctor to be notified of results. Grrr.
If you are in need of medical assistance whilst in the Northern Territory? It would be best to consider other more populated locations with a better health system. We decided it to be pertinent for us to drive the around 3,000 kilometres to Adelaide to seek out a satisfactory resolution.
We decided to head express to Adelaide, naturally monitoring Steve’s comfort level along the way.
Ironically during one of our overnight stops, another traveller was doing exactly the same thing after a similar experience at another nearby medical facility.
Our first couple of days travelling south the daily outside temperature hovered mostly at the 36 C. It was lovely and cool within the confines of the tow tug. When we stopped to change driver’s, it felt like our lungs were burning from the excessive outside heat. It certainly helped with appreciating our tow tugs effective air conditioner.
At one stage we were both feeling weary and stopped for a bit of a siesta. The first thing we did was to turn on the caravan’s air conditioner, stretch out on the lovely comfortable bed and we were both soon asleep. We do love our modern-day conveniences. Quite different from our younger days, holidays in a tent with kids. Lots of huffing and puffing inflating air mattresses for beds, the heat and the cold. They were great times then and now look at us.
We were wishing we were back at Litchfield National Park. Missing its cooling waters and most satisfying scenery. The closest we could do was to view some of our recent photographs.
There were still the deliberately lit fires burning in the country side to contend with. The below pictures taken from one of our nightly, road side rest area stops. We kept an eye on the fire during the night. At sunset the fire looked like it was a good 10-20 kilometres away and seemed to be travelling away from us. It seemed to be getting closer during the night and by morning it was less than a kilometre from us from an obvious change in the wind direction. We experienced some nervousness, each time we woke during the night. We were on the off side of the road which provided a good width fire break between us and the fire if it had crept up on us. If we had been on the near side to the fire, we would not have stayed.
A couple of hundred kilometres down the road we came across another fire on the road edge. Steve thought he spotted where it may have originated, at a location on the edge of the road. Of interest there were many birds of prey, “Whistling Kites,” circling the edge of the fire front on the lookout for any fleeing animals suitable for their diet.
We were expecting around a week’s duration of “just driving,” during day time hours with nights spent at various road side rest areas along our route.
Around Alice Springs we said good-bye to the red centre colours of Australia. We welcomed a drop in daily temperatures of about 10 degrees, south of Alice Springs.
The “just driving,” can be monotonous. To help stay alert we would listen to audio books via the tow tugs stereo, listen to music or simply talk with one another. There would be regular changing of drivers and stopping to stretch out to assist with protesting body parts. If there was a change of scenery from the predominate flat, uninteresting landscape we would stop for a look to provide a spark to our well-being. Like some receding wet lands we had heard about at Newcastle Waters.
While travelling through central Australia, we do enjoy time spent at rest stops alongside dried creek beds, lined with beautiful trees. The background noise of various chirping birds can be delightful listening.
We had no set itinerary. It was all about our well-being on the day. We generally commenced our days drive anywhere between 7 - 9 am. One day we decided at 12.30 pm to drive no more. Other days we were content to drive to around 5 pm.
Where-ever possible when with-in the confines of our caravan we have no coverings over our windows. Especially when camped in a beautiful bush setting. Our feel-good neurotransmitters were tantalised by our surroundings, camped out back in Australia with its striking bush settings. From the nice warm comforts of our bed, we love to watch the morning rising sun and the changing colours of the landscape around us.
We were within 100 kilometres of the township of Coober Pedy. When travelling north through Coober Pedy back in May we saw many wedged tail eagles. It was now September and we were on our return journey. It was early morning and we were within 100 kilometres of Coober Pedy.
We were on heightened alert, watching closely the nearby country side for sightings of the large, grand looking wedged tail eagle birds.
We were travelling along the Stuart Highway which has many abandoned, wrecked cars alongside it. We try to identify the make of each abandoned car, another tactic we use to break up the monotony of the boring drive. We both spotted a car in the bush off to the side of the road. When we drove by, we both burst out with laughter. It was a setting we hadn’t previously experienced. It warranted the execution of a U turn to obtain a photograph. It was a photograph taken at speed as it was unsafe to stop till much further down the road.
A little bit further along, in the distance, we spotted the iconic Ghan Train travelling parallel with us. It was another high-light, breaking up the monotony of driving through the day.
We arrived at Coober Pedy with zero eagle sightings. Of note we didn’t see any deceased kangaroos, nearby the road side, something which attracts birds of prey.
We parked up for the night at Coober Pedy. It is a desolate looking location. We had a look at the Big Bucket and enjoyed a freshly made pizza from one of the local shops for our evening meal.
The following day we topped up the tow tugs fuel tank. At $240 for about 100 litres of diesel. We continued south, driving in very windy conditions. Rarely does the wind affect us. On this day we were getting moved about by strong gusts of wind. Our fuel consumption was up around 50% on normal and not diminishing. We made the call to stop for the day after about 45 kilometres. There was no need to waste an extra $120 above our normal fuel consumption. More importantly there was the consideration for our safety, to avoid driving in atrocious conditions.
We pulled into a roadside rest area and followed a track for about a kilometre into the desert plains. We parked up for the day with the caravan rocking about from the strong winds. For us it was a perfect desolate setting, delightful with our nearest neighbour a kilometre away back at the roadside rest area. We spent the day gazing across our setting from within the comforts of our caravan.
The following morning, we opened our eyes to be greeted by a stunning Australian bush sunrise. It tickled all our feel-good neurotransmitter receptacles, instantly awakening us in a delightful way.
We continued driving south. The wind was still present, thankfully without the ferocity of the previous day. It was pleasing to see our average fuel consumption drop too normal.
During the day we experienced a mob of emus run across the road in front of us, some goats and some sheep at different times adding to some unwanted excitement. Each time you experience a heart flutter and note, to be on the alert for the unexpected.
Driving through the Australian outback regions can be tediously boring. We were pleased to spot a couple of the mighty looking wedged tail eagle birds, providing enjoyable viewing.
In outback Australia, phone communications are difficult and if there is a need for emergency services assistance, it can be a long way away.
We stopped to assist at a car roll over with some excitable people at the scene trying to help an injured driver. A couple of trucks also stopped and sadly no one had access to phone communications. People were passing along the information via the very limited two-way radio communications requesting if anyone had the capabilities to notify ambulance and police. Someone stopped with a star link communication system and they were unable to get it to work.
We continued south stopping at the next fuel station where Steve used the stations phone to notify emergency services. Thankfully by then, they were aware of the vehicle crash.
We were travelling along the main highway between Darwin and Adelaide. For an outback road it is quite busy. If travelling elsewhere or those living in Australian outback regions, emergency help could/would be challenging.
It was a reminder for us, the additional dangers of outback travel.
Back in May we spent a night camped overlooking the dry salt plains of Lake Hart. On our return trip in September Lake Hart was covered by water.
Australia is a vast continent and we had spent the last several months camped at inland settings. Since leaving the most northern city of Australia, Darwin, we had travelled about 2,700 kilometres heading south. After a couple of weeks with a primary focus on, just driving, at a laid-back pace, we got to experience a night camped with an ocean setting. We had arrived near the tip of Spencer Gulf. Spencer Gulf is of triangular shape stretching for nearly 400 kilometres from the Southern Ocean of Australia with a mouth width of about 200 kilometres.
Australia is surrounded by ocean waters. An indication we were nearby the ocean regions was the green agricultural crops.
We had only been back at our home base for a few hours and someone was already into their element.
Steve had a doctor’s appointment in the following week, to hopefully start the process of getting his hernia fixed.
